Thread: Question for Wipe on Poly users

Originally Posted by Peter36

What about Ubeaut Traditional Wax

No experience with that product, but would be interested to read from others of their's.

Mike

UBeaut's Traditional Wax works brilliantly over Minwax Wipe on Poly.

cheers
Wendy

Originally Posted by RufflyRustic

UBeaut's Traditional Wax works brilliantly over Minwax Wipe on Poly.

cheers
Wendy

And it is made by the sponsor of this Board

I notice on the Minwax website that they have an oil based wipe on poly and a water based wipe on poly.
If I remember correctly we are talking about the oil based as we can add turps??

How much does the stuff cost?


Cellist, about how many coats of the DIY version gives a reasonable result?


Thanks all.

the minwax wipe on poly cost me $29.98 at bunnings

Still cheaper to make your own - 3 parts polyurethane of your choice (I use Estapol Satin or Gloss) to 2 parts mineral turps.

I only ever bought one can of Minwax WipeOn Poly, then, thanks to whoever posted the recipe on here, I've been making up my own ever since.

Thanks guys.

Mr Brush (Mr Wipe On?) how many coats of the DIY mix do you apply?

For those of you who find the wipe on poly (or sprayed or brushed) is staying tacky, it will be caused by oils in the timber.

One way to overcome this problem is to wipe the timber down with acetone before applying your finish. This gets the oils out of the surface (And your skin! so avoid contact and use gloves)

By the way, this is the recommended procedure when gluing oily timbers too (wipe down with acetone befor applying the glue) Teak and Huon pine are 2 timbers that come to mind.

Cheers,

Chipman

So how do I go wet sanding with a danish/tung oil mix oil and then applying wipe on poly - sounds like it's advisable to wait until all oil has thoroughly dried i.e. weeks before applying Minwax?

Ben - the home brew wipe-on poly can be treated exactly the same as the Minwax stuff. I've found you need a minimum of 3-4 coats just to get a functional finish, more than that if you want to build up a deeper lustre. I tend to use the satin finish mind you, so 3-4 coats normally does it.

That's the only downside with the wipe-on poly products; you only get a REALLY thin coat per application compared to spraying or brushing on regular Estapol.

Mind you, it does go off much faster....

Thanks Mr Brush, three or four coats (or a few more) sounds OK as you could probably recoat this stuff in a few hours (say 3,4,5?) if the weather was right?
We get 300 days of sunshine here so recoat times will be minimal.

I don't mind putting on a few coats of fast drying finish, but I'm not keen to do the old "one coat everyday for a week, etc, etc"

Sounds like I could start with a layer of oil, then after the oil has properly gone off, go over with a few coats DIY wipe on......hmmmm......

Yup - in average weather conditions, you can easily get 2 or even 3 coats of wipe-on completed in a day, so its a fairly quick finishing technique.

One of my favorite finishes is the satin wipe-on poly over danish oil. As you say, its worth waiting a while after putting the danish oil on, as it needs to be completely dry before using the wipe-on poly.

Finish with a quick wipe of Ubeaut trad wax to really bring it up.

Mr Brush, newby here

Does the Danish oil darken the timber up slightly?

I'm about to finish a piece I have out of Tasmanian Oak, and I find the timber looks a little light with the wipe on poly alone. I don't really want to add stain though.

I've tried it on a small piece, but I found the danish oil only yellows the Tassie Oak slightly, it doesn't really darken it much.

I have the same problem as you - a large entertainment unit I built using a mix of Tassie Oak veneered board and solid timber. When I started out I quite liked the idea of the pinkish tones of the natural timber......but by the time I'd finished it I'd gone off that altogether . Now I have to make it match the tones of all the all other pieces I have built for the same room (mostly Brushbox), so I want to make the Tassie Oak a mid-tone brown before I apply the Wipe-On Poly for protection.

In his (most excellent) Polishers Handbook, our fearless leader mentions using Van Dyke Crystals to do this, but I'd have to experiment on some scrap timber before attempting the large piece. Has anyone tried the Van Dyke Cystals, and if so any guidelines would be appreciated. For example, how much of the stuff do you dissolve in what quantity of hot water?? I've mucked around with spirit stains, but find it hard to get uniform colour on such a large area.