Thread: Recommeded Oil Based Stain

bunnings
paint shops
mitre 10
heaps of smaller independent places

i typed "buy oil based stain vic" and got a heap of results

deleted

Originally Posted by havabeer69

bunnings
paint shops
mitre 10
heaps of smaller independent places

i typed "buy oil based stain vic" and got a heap of results

Thanks for the reply, I was thinking more along the lines of these types of oil based stains:

http://www.thewoodworks.com.au/shop/...olvent-soluble

I'm unsure you can apply shellac over Cabot's Interior oil based stain?.

So just to satisfy my curiosity I bought a small tin of Cabot's Walnut Interior Stain. I was expecting the colour to be as dark & rich as the F&W stains however they're nowhere near it. Instead the concentration of colour is more like a very transparent light brown. You wouldn't be able to get a deep rich colour of walnut no matter how many coats you applied.

Are all oil based stains like this or is it just Cabot's range?. Other oil based stains from Bunnings are:

• Intergrain Colour Additive
• Intergrain Universal Timber Oil Pretint
• Timber Protect Oil Based One Coat Stain
• Sikkens Cetol HLSe

I'd be interested to hear from anyone who's tried any of these. Or anyone with advice on Oil based Stains / Spirit based stains etc.

Did you give it a really, really good stir before applying the stain?

Pigment will often settle on the base of the can and semi solidify. This needs to be well stirred into the mix to combine it and bring out the deep colour.

Any dye or stain can be used under shellac so long as it is not alcohol based, So water based, oil based or turpentine based should all work fine including the powdered ones from The Woodworks (mixed in mineral turpentine)

Hope this is of some help to you.

Cheers - Neil

Originally Posted by ubeaut

Did you give it a really, really good stir before applying the stain?

Hi Neil, Thanks for the only reply I've had on this. Yep gave it a good stir.

Originally Posted by ubeaut

Any dye or stain can be used under shellac so long as it is not alcohol based

Hmm.. does this mean I can use polyurethane varnish to seal the mentholated spirit based stain and then continue using shellac over the top as the finish?. I actually sent Feast Watson the exact same question but never got a reply...

Meant to put this in last post.

One of the better dark walnut stains used to be Wattyl Colourwood Walnut. Readily available at most hardware sand paint shops.

Turpentine based and is ideal for use under shellac.

Bear in mind that not all walnut is dark brown. much/most of the better natural (unstained) walnut furniture is a beautiful honey, gold, or blond colour unless it's black walnut then it's more into the darker brown to almost mahogany colours.

Much of what you see as walnut furniture now pine or similar stained with a dark brown like the Wattyl mentioned in previous post and not the real look of walnut. I've seen beds etc being sold in furniture shops as walnut when it's stained pine and the sellers will tell you it's real walnut.

Sorry get a bit carried away sometimes about stained pine and others.

Thanks Neil. I'll give it a go.

No that's a NO!!

The shellac and poly will move at different rates (due to cold, heat, timber movement etc) and will almost certainly craze at some point down the track.

Don't mix different finishes over or under different finishes You can put different shellac's over different shellacs so long as they are the same. eg dewaxed gold, blond, bleached, etc. but not over or under waxy shellac. Don't put hard shellac over any other finish. You can put poly over poly from different makers so long as the surface has been roughed up between coats to allow it to adhere to the previous coat.

It can all be a bit mind boggling.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Hi Neil, Thanks for the only reply I've had on this. Yep gave it a good stir.



Hmm.. does this mean I can use polyurethane varnish to seal the mentholated spirit based stain and then continue using shellac over the top as the finish?. I actually sent Feast Watson the exact same question but never got a reply...

Originally Posted by ubeaut

No that's a NO!!

The shellac and poly will move at different rates (due to cold, heat, timber movement etc) and will almost certainly craze at some point down the track.

This is what I thought actually. I'll stick to sanding sealer to seal in the stain then.

If you're using shellac over the stain you shouldn't need to seal it in as the shellac will do that. Also if you are going to use sanding sealer under the shellac then it is best to use the shellac based sanding sealer of ours because it is compatible, where as many other sanding sealers will give the same result as using 2 different finishes and the possibility of crazing down the track.
Like I said it can all be a bit mind boggling.

Cheers

Originally Posted by ubeaut

If you're using shellac over the stain you shouldn't need to seal it in as the shellac will do that.

The stain I've applied is pretty heavy (see photo's below) so if I try sealing that in with just shellac it'll lift the stain straight off.

From this:

IMG_6618.jpg

To This:

0a.jpg

How does the ubeaut sanding sealer compare to the F&W stuff?. When I've used the F&W SS its as thick as treacle and very soft when dried..

How does the ubeaut sanding sealer compare to the F&W stuff?. When I've used the F&W SS its as thick as treacle and very soft when dried.

Completely different it is basically really weak shellac. Designed to raise the grain after sanding so the raised nap of the grain stands up and becomes brittle and can be wiped off with finest abrasive grit, giving a super fine surface that will take the shellac or other finish, without raising the grain.

Most other sanding sealers are basically grain fillers hence the honey thickness of them. Used to be cheaper to fill with SS than waste the expensive finish filling the grain.

What shellac are you using. Golden flake shellac, blond, white, etc?

If you are brushing or spraying the first coat it shouldn't lift the stain off. If you intend to French polish the piece the first coat even if wiped on still shouldn't lift the stain if it is turpentine, oil or water based.

If you're worried about this then try it on a scrap piece or a conspicuous piece of the work piece.

Most stains will darken the face of a rubber with the first couple of coats if you French polish it. But a brush or swooge* coat will stop that.

*Swooge the internal filling of a polishers rubber before being compressed in the linen to make a rubber also called a fad, tampon or muñeca, depending on where you come from.

Cheers