Thread: Recycled Oregon benchtop finish

Mirotone 2013 won't protect the timber as it is only a stain and oregon stains inconsistently.

There are low yellowing Mirotone finishes that can be professionally sprayed on that are suitable for kitchen benchtops like Mirotec 8052. Keep in mind these finishes are not easily repaired.

Osmo wont yellow the oregon too much but will require constant maintenance and isn't really suitable for kitchen bench tops.

Regardless of what you put on it this kitchen benchtop will require constant attention and will need to be treated carefully as it isn't really a suitable kitchen benchtop material in my opinion.

Thanks. What is Osmo?

Personally you need to start again, remove the stain and the oil if you can, wash down with Acetone or similar re sand and then apply colour if you want even colour you may have to spot tint, then finish with some thing like Rustins plastic coating this will help protect the timber, Oregon is not a wise choice for a kitchen bench top, too soft and will act like a sponge if only finished with oil.
The black, could be anything it is recycled, what was the building it was removed from, could well be from old nails and a myriad of other things, you get that some times with recycled timber, usually considered part of the charm.

SWMBO chose Oregon kitchen bench tops for our kitchen .
It's very soft and so to protect it I used two pack epoxy floor finish and this sort of works but only for a while.
I.ts actually a bit less yellow in sunlight than shows in the photo. I think its the LED warm lighting give it this hue.

KitchenPanos.jpg

I reckon we're getting ~5 years between recoats before it starts looking ratty. Recoating is a horrible job as all the old epoxy must be sanded off and that is hard work. We've let it go a bit each time and have only recoated it 3 times in 25 years and it was due another recoat a few years back but we are looking at renovating the kitchen so that won't be happening.

The proposed reno has a stone bench top on the top of the list.

Osmo oil is a 'hardwax oil' made in Europe you can buy it at Abrasive Belts and Buffs down at lonsdale. Maybe the epoxy finish BobL mentioned would be best suited to the soft nature of oregon but still you're looking at requiring reasonable maintenance.

Thanks. Yep it’s all sanded back and now fresh again. I’m practising on off cuts so I don’t make the same mistake again. It’s an island bench and I don’t mind a rustic finish and re-oiling every 6 months or so. But not keen on sanding too often!

Is there a trick to applying hard wax oil? I tried a Bunnings one and it was very uneven to apply in both colour and texture.

You'll have to lightly sand prior to reapplying oil and even more so due to the fact this benchtop is going to get dented and scratched easily without a hard coating due to the soft nature of oregon and being in such a high traffic area such as a kitchen benchtop.

Best i've found for applying osmo is roll on a coat, allow to dry for 24hrs, very lightly cut back with 320 grit, clean off dust, roll on a second coat, allow to dry 24-48hrs and denib with 1200 grit followed by a little bit of the osmo liquid wax cleaner. Leaves a nice finish and is much more hard wearing than a wipe on wipe off type application.

Originally Posted by hurcorh

Osmo oil is a 'hardwax oil' made in Europe you can buy it at Abrasive Belts and Buffs down at lonsdale. Maybe the epoxy finish BobL mentioned would be best suited to the soft nature of oregon but still you're looking at requiring reasonable maintenance.

Thanks so much! I called them and going there today to pick up some samples.

Originally Posted by hurcorh

You'll have to lightly sand prior to reapplying oil and even more so due to the fact this benchtop is going to get dented and scratched easily without a hard coating due to the soft nature of oregon and being in such a high traffic area such as a kitchen benchtop.

Best i've found for applying osmo is roll on a coat, allow to dry for 24hrs, very lightly cut back with 320 grit, clean off dust, roll on a second coat, allow to dry 24-48hrs and denib with 1200 grit followed by a little bit of the osmo liquid wax cleaner. Leaves a nice finish and is much more hard wearing than a wipe on wipe off type application.

Fantastic info. Yay I have some hope. I’ll let you know how I go

Less is more with rolling on Osmo.
Just on the roller,
Use the Osmo roller (pricey) or use the Unipro microfibre roller from bunnings. I found the monarch rollers dump a lot of their fibres in your finish it is a pain to work with.

Use the design of the roller to your advantage this will remove most chances of seeing roller lines in the finished surface. By this I mean use full length rolls going with the length of the timber grain, apply even consistent pressure and have the open end of the roller pointing in the direction of the previously rolled section of surface. As seen in this video. Sponsored: Osmo Polyx(R)-Oil: Roller and Brush Application Demo - YouTube

There is less pressure at the open end of the roller as more pressure is directed onto the surface directly below the handle of the roller. I hope that makes sense but if not i'll try to explain in better detail.

Wow ok - I hope I don’t stuff it up!! Sounds complex. Have you ever used the tinted version or do you stain then put clear over the top?

Originally Posted by hurcorh

Less is more with rolling on Osmo.
Just on the roller,
Use the Osmo roller (pricey) or use the Unipro microfibre roller from bunnings. I found the monarch rollers dump a lot of their fibres in your finish it is a pain to work with.

Use the design of the roller to your advantage this will remove most chances of seeing roller lines in the finished surface. By this I mean use full length rolls going with the length of the timber grain, apply even consistent pressure and have the open end of the roller pointing in the direction of the previously rolled section of surface. As seen in this video. Sponsored: Osmo Polyx(R)-Oil: Roller and Brush Application Demo - YouTube

There is less pressure at the open end of the roller as more pressure is directed onto the surface directly below the handle of the roller. I hope that makes sense but if not i'll try to explain in better detail.

Yea I've used the tinted but that will probably be more prone to water blotching in the long term and uneven staining due to the nature of oregon.

Originally Posted by hurcorh

Yea I've used the tinted but that will probably be more prone to water blotching in the long term and uneven staining due to the nature of oregon.

Thanks for answering all my questions. If I stained underneath would I use an oil based stain? I have miratone 2013. Also do you find the Osmo yellows over time?