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Thread: The road to filled wood
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23rd February 2005, 09:24 AM #1
The road to filled wood
I have heard about filling cracks etc in wood with bitumen putty then sanding to get a gum vein look. I think this would look fantastic in the gidgee.
So far the only bitumen putty I can find has been the non setting type for roofing etc. Can anyone help me as to what to do and where to get the product.Great minds discuss ideas,
average minds discuss events,
small minds discuss people
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23rd February 2005, 09:35 AM #2
Don't know about that but I've tried two methods that both work:
1. Get some casting resin
2. Get some casting resin and some black oxide powder (used to colour grout)
The first gives you a clear filler so the natural colour comes through and you can see into the crack/vein/void. This looks awesome. You get a real 3D look.
The second gives you a black filler that hides the 'internals' of the crack.
Once the resin has gone off you can scrape and/or sand it flush."I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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23rd February 2005, 05:46 PM #3
I'd use Silent's method as bitumen softens with heat (even the heat from sunlight) which could mar the piece. Even opoxy glue can be tinted rather than mess around with larger quanties of casting resin.
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24th February 2005, 04:26 PM #4
Before you go down the line of epoxy consider the rosin based filler in "the handbook" (its called colophony or something similar).
Its far easier to work with - scrapes off, sands easily, finishes perfectly and you can do small bits at a time once you've mixed the batch. Similar to epoxy you can tint it any color - for black use something like "lamp black" carbon dust. The only probelm you might have is finding the ingredients (and at an afordable price) - let me know as I have a fair bit lying around if you'd like to give it a try.
The fumes do present a bit of a health risk, but not un-manageable (epoxy fumes aren't that great either).
Cheers.
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24th February 2005, 04:38 PM #5
I didn't check the book . Hope I don't get excommunicated :eek:
Great minds discuss ideas,
average minds discuss events,
small minds discuss people
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24th February 2005, 04:58 PM #6
The casting resin I use is actually a polyester resin. It does scrape and sand easily and once you apply a finish, it looks like glass. The only problem I have with the stuff is that it doesn't always go off properly and you get this sticky mess. Not enough catalyst I suspect. It's meant to be 2% but I get lazy sometimes: "hmm, 5 drops will do"
I sometimes use clear Araldyte, which is an epoxy. It works better than the polyester but is more expensive and a pain when you need large amounts."I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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27th February 2005, 10:50 PM #7
Rosin?
Before you go down the line of epoxy
does rosin have any advantages or differences to epoxy, Eastie?Rusty
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28th February 2005, 02:10 PM #8
As I understand it, bitumenous (tar) type products NEVER set. They are actually a liquid that just happens to be very very thick.
Bob Willson
The term 'grammar nazi' was invented to make people, who don't know their grammar, feel OK about being uneducated.
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1st March 2005, 11:41 AM #9
Bob is correct, the drip time is measured in decades but it does have a drip time. The advantage is that it is flexible and therefore will not pull out from the crack with changing humidity. I would not recomend it for anything that would contact food. Working with reactive epoxides (epoxy) is not without its hazards and the solvents used in it are only slightly better, the dust from sanding it is also a pretty fair hazard. If the rosin method does not use nasty solvents I would go that route, from memory rosin does not set rock hard and would also allow some flexibility.
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1st March 2005, 12:39 PM #10
I'm going down the same track at the moment and I need some colophony resin, does anyone have any idea where I can get it?
Neils book does not mention a supplier and a google didn't reveal anything.Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.
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1st March 2005, 01:09 PM #11
For this exact discussion tryprevious thread
Sigma-Aldrich carry it at $40 per 500g, but you would need to set up an account etc with them. Calophony and rosin are interchangeable but a local chemist knows and pronounces it as "resin"
Another potential source of supply is the music industry, I have just been given a lump of material to use-no charge because it was not of musical quality.
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1st March 2005, 04:32 PM #12
I did a search on that thread but it shed no light on suppliers, thanks for your input.
Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.
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1st March 2005, 04:39 PM #13Originally Posted by Iain
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1st March 2005, 04:44 PM #14
Sorry, upon re reading my response seems a little curt, it was not intended that way, I meant to say thanks for the input re the supplier as I had done a fair amount of googling this morning to no avail.
Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.
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1st March 2005, 08:40 PM #15
Rosin is used by bowed string instrument (violin, viola, cello etc) on the horsehair of a bow.
I have no idea how expensive it is but if you only want a little bit it might be worth the expense. Alternatively if you know a bowed string instrument player, ask if they have a broken bit. Rosin is fairly brittle and I have often seen players struggling with little bits that have broken off.