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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Mandurah, Western Australia
    Age
    67
    Posts
    349

    Default Sand Seal Stain....what order

    Ok...looking for lots of idea's here. Yes you will be able to see from the pictures that I have posted that I can throw a few pieces of wood together....

    I will try for the short story...hubby used to do all the finishing...I would make it...while I went to work Ed would be at home & he would polish it up & wax it....don't know how...or what he would do...but they always came inside looking and feeling lovely....

    I start off with my pine(always use pine)...as I construct it, I sand it back starting at 180 grit going back as far as 600 or 800 sometimes even 1200...love that shinny smooth look.... then I stain it.....
    I don't always go back so far sometimes 600 is nice....so do I use a sealer....a burnish oil....wax....when & where in the procedure should I implement it....

    Yes I feel like an absolute "dill pickle"...don't exactly know the best & most economical ....also remembering I do quite a bit of stuff...so time is also a factor...BUT PLEASE NO ...spray gun procedures or varnishing....need to have a heat resistant finish if possible & silky feel....

    I'm not really stupid (ok Dingo, that a rhetorical statement & doesn't need any embellishment) lol...just didn't watch what Ed did.....or ask....kind of thought he'd be around for a lot longer....silly me!


    ....what I'm doing now is ....
    sanding the woodwork to about 600 grit
    wiping on a stain....
    when its dried wipe on a burnishing oil...
    sanding more to what finish I like....
    then wiping on a wax....or sometimes orange oil....
    I'm trying out different ways....
    Really would like Western Australian....woodworker who is proficient in this area to show me....I live in the MANDURAH area....so please if anyone knows an accomplished woodworker who is willing to help and see if what I am doing is ok...it would be really appreciated...or point me in the right direction....I'm willing to travel to learn.....
    Thanks
    Kerry <table class="fieldset" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="1" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td>completed inside now.jpg (27.4 KB)</td> <td align="right"><input class="button" value="Remove" name="delete[58492]" style=" 7" type="submit"></td> </tr><tr> <td> IMG_0065.jpg (108.0 KB)</td> <td align="right"><input class="button" value="Remove" name="delete[58493]" style=" 7" type="submit"></td> </tr><tr> <td> IMG_0064.jpg (75.5 KB)</td> <td align="right"><input class="button" value="Remove" name="delete[58494]" style=" 7" type="submit"></td> </tr><tr> <td> IMG_0067.jpg (94.8 KB)</td> <td align="right"><input class="button" value="Remove" name="delete[58495]" style=" 7" type="submit"></td> </tr> </tbody></table>
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    Don't think you're playing it safe by walking in the middle of the road.....that's the surest way to get hit by traffic coming from both ways!
    I'm passionate about woodwork.......making Sawdust again & loving it!

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    402

    Default Making up some samples..

    Hello K,

    Where is all the help out there?

    I will start it off, and I hope that others will follow.

    Pine is a very soft wood, and is known to blotch if the wood is stained first, to counter act this finishing problem the wood is usually treated first with wash coats of shellac, sealers, lacquers, glue sizing, or wood conditioners, which basically will be any one of the drying oils like DO.BLO, or TUNG OIL.

    The trick here is to do some testing with whatever stain you will be using, in some cases only one coat of these "sealers" may be all you need, in other cases it may take more coats. Sanding the woods and the sealer is very important to the pentration of the type of stain that you use, as the sealers will not allow the stain to go into the woods. As I mentioned, one coat of sealer may do, or too many may not, only by testing will you know how many coats you will need, and how much you need to sand each coat.

    Compatibilty, between your sealer and your final coats are important, one way to over come this is to use the same coating for your sealer and your clear coat ( top coats) In most cases they will be compatible, the only way to know for sure is to do some testing.

    T, if you check out the thread about "brushing out" the stain or glaze, you might want to try this technique on a sample.

    I hope this helps you, I hope that the others out there will follow with other information and advise.

    Best Regards,

    Mac S

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Armadale
    Posts
    1,150

    Default sorry dont live in WA

    sorry kekemo,
    I dont think we're ignoring your post, my understanding was that you want hands on assistance.
    I would love to help but I'm in Melb.
    sounds like your on the right track anyway just experiment with a few cut offs
    danish oil will go on pine but seal with shellac first,or just uses a thick coat of Danish Oil if you dont want to stain it, this penetrates the timber and hardens it but you'll have to apply a few coats and sand between as it soaks in patchyfor the first few coats
    as i said, practice on an off cut

    you go girl
    astrid

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Mandurah, Western Australia
    Age
    67
    Posts
    349

    Default Mac & Astrid...thanks...

    Gee Mac...just the type of email that I was hoping for, that's great...went yesterday and purchase a tin of sealer from Carbatec in Balcatta...yes that "blotching" was driving me nuts...ok gives me much better idea from that....

    Astrid...yes...sorry if the email was misleading...yes... I need both...help from members & if there is anyone that does live close I would appriciative the help....thanks.

    Going to try the sealer...have been sanding back the side-board top...and now if it doesn't rain it pours....

    First time ever the sander seems to be hot....well....could have been I've been working with it for about 3 hours...so going to give it a rest....but hope I don't have a bearing going in it....that will upset me greatly....just cant be with out my sander...wish I could convince Festo to send me the latest one to demo-trial(mmm you can always dream)....just love my sander...what a difference to woodworking it makes....

    Have just jointed 2 / 1.8m x 240mm x 35mm pine planks for the top of side-cupboard for family room...I'm making for my son & daughter-in-law's new house... just a gift speciallly for Vicky, to say how much I appriciate the wonderful job she does looking after my two beautiful granddaughters....& to commend her with the job she took on looking after my son....don't think I would put up with him.....LOL....but he's a good worker & great dad...just a messy bugger, thats just about as stubbon as his mother...lol ( but a supberb Landscaper...) cant ask for everything....can we?

    Thanks for your help...extremely appriciated I can assure you!

    Shed-butterfly....KEKEMO


    Have uploaded two photos....yes its true this is a picture of my best mate...lol cant seem to keep my hands off her...lol...seem to have a pretty good partnership going on....& yes I don't mind "her" handing around in my shed when every she likes....as long as she is responsive....and switch on!

    You can see from the pine top were have a pretty good partnership.....
    http://groups.msn.com/WOODWORKCountryCottage
    Don't think you're playing it safe by walking in the middle of the road.....that's the surest way to get hit by traffic coming from both ways!
    I'm passionate about woodwork.......making Sawdust again & loving it!

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Armadale
    Posts
    1,150

    Default love that festool

    yeah I love mine too it sure beats the old orbital
    just a tip, if your going to stain your pine, dont sand above about 360, stain dosnt penetrate as well.
    love astrid

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Mandurah, Western Australia
    Age
    67
    Posts
    349

    Default mmm should have said that five minutes earlier....

    Hi...yep I came into read the messages.....just after I had finished putting the stain on( oh well its still ok)....yep should have stopped at the 180 grit for the stain, as I can see its lighter than the usually finish that I get....but never mind its going to look really great when she's all put together, have the doors to make now....& oh what a difference the sealer did make.... I actually think because it is uniform you tend to look at the whole top, the grain looks stunning....very pleased with the finish....I can see when I use the darker stains that it will be a bit advantage...at the moment I am using country baltic....its very obvious the difference....can wait until I try it with the Antique Walnut.....thanks a heap.....
    KEKEMO
    Don't think you're playing it safe by walking in the middle of the road.....that's the surest way to get hit by traffic coming from both ways!
    I'm passionate about woodwork.......making Sawdust again & loving it!

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