Thread: Rubbing out lacquer finishes

Turf the Turtle stuff, go to an auto spray paints place and get something like the Farecla buffing products - the automotive trade stuff won't have silicone as it's for body shop use where silicone is a big no.

Buffing machines are the only way to go for large jobs; make sure you get one with variable speed to minimise rub-through. A quick rub with 1500 or 2000 grit first gets rid of any minor surface flaws nice and quickly, including bug legs, and it'll buff right to a high gloss.

I use automotive acrylic lacquer for my spraying...it flashes off in minutes and you can complete a full spray job in a half-hour, bar any final compounding.

Thanks for the reply. Can you tell me what brand of lacquer you use and where you get it?
Also, what form does the 1500-2000 grit come in - sandpaper, paste, or is it the Farecia buffing compound you mentioned ?
And what style and brand of buffing machine do you use? Is it one of those things like an angle grinder ?
Sorry for the nit picky questions, but I'm trying to get to the specifics as I find that without them I get 'near enough' but never quite right - like using Turtle when I should be using something like Farecia.

Cheers and thanks
Arron

I'm finicky when it comes to choosing acrylic clear, my selection criteria being 'anything on the shelf'.

Since it's acrylic it's going to need compounding anyway, and since timber tends to be a lot less curvy than car panels compounding isn't too hard, so I don't have to worry about getting a premium 'gives a really high gloss off the gun' acrylic.

Motorspray and Hi-Chem seem to be the most common on my shelf, and are stocked at auto stores; the mob that used to be 3D Paints stock some auto finishes too (Hi-Chem brands).

I've just recently found that Hi-Chem makes an iso-free 2k clear finish, so I want to try that one day. That may give me a no-compounding-needed finish.

The other useful thing to do is pick up a spray can of the same brand - then rub-throughs don't mean dragging out the gun you just finished cleaning.

I've got an angle grinder style buffer, but if you have RSI related grip strength issues there are ones that sit flat and just need guiding across the panel. You can even get lambswool pads for some of the random orbit sanders. Variable speed is a must!

The 1500-2000 grit is sandpaper.

I also have a question about finishing acrylic lacquer.

I'm about to apply the finish coats to a paint job with Hi Chem "satin Black ". Have sprayed the acrylic lacquer primer, sanded back with 800 wet and dry. now glass flat.

Hi Chem instructions says do not cut and buff this product. (satin black acrylic lacquer)

My question is, does this product flow out to a flat smooth finish, considering that you can not cut and buff, i assume it must ?

It'll be as flat (topologically) as however flat you spray gloss; there's no extra flow out. Using a retarder thinner additive can give you a few more minutes flash off time, but if you want to keep it flat (gloss level), it's all in the spray technique.

Thanks MS. Do you mean the techinque for sprayng the satin would be different to spraying a full gloss finish, if so, can you explain.
Also, as I am painting 4 sided cabinets should i be mindfull of overspray on the the surfaces i have just previously sprayed?

Reasonably happy with the result considering this is my first attempt. Use as directed and lacquer is pretty forgiving. Like i keep hearing, its all in the prep.

...the other thing to note is that flat paint finishes can be a real pain to keep clean....!