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  1. #1
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    Default Sanding and applying a clear finish to a herringbone countertop

    Hey everyone! My first time working with wood and I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing.

    I bought a herringbone countertop from Ikea to use as a computer desk and figured in order to protect it from scratches and give it a bit of water resistance I should apply some clear coat to it and settled on danish oil.

    After reading up on this, seems like I need to first prep the surface by giving it a good sanding (120 grit, then up to 220 grit before applying the first layer of oil).

    Numerous guides have told me to sand along the grain, but when it comes to a herringbone pattern, which way should I actually go?

    As per the attachment... should I just go in a straight direction vertically? or horizontally? Or do I try to follow the 45 degree angle on each block?
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  2. #2
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    I'm not sure what equipment you have, but I'd sand it with a Random Orbital sander if you have access to one. Also, unless it's presently really rough, which I expect it's not, there's no need to start at 120. If it's a veneer, which it probably is, it won't take you long to sand right through. I'd give it a light sand starting at 240 and going up through to 400 or maybe 800. After sanding, give it a good clean with white spirits before oiling.
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  3. #3
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    Aug 2008
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    +1 for a random orbit sander, even a cheapy from Bunnings, but you can get away with a circular motion by hand if you start at 240 grit. Or you can try to more-or-less follow the grain direction. Either way, the oil will mostly hide any fine scratches that go the wrong way.

    Just had a look at the IKEA site and it appears to be 2mm timber on a substrate, so you aren't likely to go through it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
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    Melbourne
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    Thanks for the advice!

    So do I just start with 220 grit and above? I was under the impression that I need a 120 grit to strip off the top layer as it is currently treated with something else, and also so that the oils can penetrate nicely. And yes, the top layer is currently already pretty smooth, so I'm now not sure if I really need to do 120.

    I didn't consider getting a random orbiter as I thought it would be a bit costly for a one off project, so I opted for a sanding block and do it by hand.

    Also, I'm new here -- just realised I posted this in the wrong forum when it should be in the finishing sub-forums perhaps? How do I move it there haha

  5. #5
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    How do I move it there
    Use the little triangle to wake up a mod and ask them to move it.

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Hobart, Tas
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    489

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    I'm at a loss as to why you need to re-finish it at all.

    I just had a look at the product page (BARKABODA Worktop - 246x3.8 cm - IKEA)

    • Worktop with a thick walnut veneer, a hardwearing natural material that can be sanded and surface treated when required.
    • For quick installation and easy maintenance the worktop is pre-treated with hard wax oil.


    As such, my suggestion would be not to do anything with it as it it had already been prepared and finished. I think that the statement about sanding is for down the track, when/if the surface becomes damaged.

    Kind regards,
    Lance

  7. #7
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Thanks everyone for the advice!

    Yeah upon further thought, I realised that maybe I don't need to protect it after all, since it already comes pre-treated. I initially thought it had little to no protection and went down the rabbit hole of Youtube tutorials of how to finish wood

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