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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    Twin Cities
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    Question sanding ? epoxy (polymer) surface--HELP

    Ok, need some advice
    background:
    I have recently used a 2 part epoxy resin finish for the top of my bar. One end was improperly mixed late in the process and never fully dried, leaving a sticky/tacky surface. Per the company, I re-poured, but I did not re-pour the entire surface just the 20 inches of problem area. Now, it dried hard (no more sticky), but I have an uneven and visible area where the two pours meet. My question is whether this can be fine sanded (if so with what)? Or should I just re-flood the entire surface (don't want to do, but will).......I have heard of pumice and rottenstone, never used. Could this just be buffed out with a power buffer? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks
    Terry

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Margaret River, Australia
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    Terry, I've seen a bar top that was final polished with a car polish (cut & polish / buffed) over polyurethane. Looked great. But I'm not sure if that would remove the "join line" between your 2 resin pours. You could at least try it, before resorting to a re-pour?

    Good Luck with it,

    Richard

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
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    Level it with wet and dry and work down to finer grits.
    Using an orbital sander will help speed it up.
    (With a bit of luck you can even it all up without going through to the timber in which case you will have to recoat)
    After the wet and dry, cut and polish with automotive cutters.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    66
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    10,766

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    As per Bob's comments, but ensure you do not get it too hot when sanding. Heat can make the finish translucent rather than clear, or even soften it.

    Good luck
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Terry, Level it with 120 wet & dry.
    Then smooth the scratches out by going thru a couple of stages of wet and dry up to say 600 (use it wet for all of the finer grades as you only need to remove the scratches of the previous grit) then use the cutters.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Twin Cities
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    update: OK, so I called the company to find out what grit etc..., they had me rough the heck out of it with 100 grit. Yes 100, and said to not work to a finer grit as I would have thought. Then re-coated (the entire surface), it was scuffed nastily by the 100 grit and now one can not even see the slightest sign of the 100 grit and dull sanded area. I will attach a pic once all done.

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