Thread: Shellawax

I constantly use Shellawax on flat surfaces and I have succeeded in polishing by hand, however, I find it easier to wrap a rag around a ROS and use this. Works well and I wish I had started using the product earlier than I did. I used to use Organoil which took about three hours to achieve the same finish as Shellawax which takes me about two minutes.

Hi Ian

thanks for your reply and information, It's good knowing how to do these things.
I take it a ROS is an Random orbital sander?

thanks again

regards

Gino

ROS Random Orbital Sander
BS Belt Sander
BS often content of BB

Have a look at http://acronymfinder.com/

Gino

If using Shellawax on a flat surface with a buff it is a good idea to use a buff that has been conditioned and not a nice new clean one.

By conditioned, I mean, one that has been used before and has a slightly glased face. If all you have is a new one put some Shellawax onto a scrap piece of timber and buff it a number of times until the face of the buff starts to glaze ofer and discolour a little. You may need to do this a few time really condition it.

Leave the duff to harden for a couple of days and then you are ready to go berserk.

For Shellawax to work properly it needs to be burnt into the surface of the timber. A new buff will only pull the polish off the surface of the work where as a conditioned one will burn it into the timber. Or so goes the theory.

The best flat surface comes from using a mixture of Shellawax Cream which has been thinned with some Shellawax liquid, That way you get the penetration into the timber but also enough time to work the polish on the surface.

It is also best to allow the polish to dry on the surface before buffing otherwise streaks may appear.

For small sections like the chair leg tops rubbing by hand should suffice.

Hope this helps.

Cheers - Neil

Thanks Neil.

Thanks Fella's much appreciate your advice

regard

Gino