Thread: Spray finishing Newbie - Looking for recommendations on Startup

Hi Kenny

A simple spray chamber can be set up in the garden a cheap Gazebo spraying out doors is ok except that bugs like to fly into wet finishes, dust and a light breeze even is enough to send you troppo.

a 2hp motor should be enough its the tank size that matters and CFM.

I have do not use normal spray equipment for water based finishes I have my old Sampson gun I used for buses and coaches as well as cars to spray lacquer, nitrocellulose, acrylic and two pack although I no long use it for that. I have 2 other guns for air a touch up and cheepy which came with the compressor also a Blackhawke smaller version as it only used for small items. The guns at Supercheap are reasonable if nit good all guns require setting as do the compressors out put to the gun.

As for water based finishes my old Wagner (electric spray gun) saw the light of day recently I plugged it in turned it on still works and it as put away again not used in 25 years. I personally do not like them now I bought mine 30+ years ago and much improvement has come o both the sprayguns and water based finishes.

Brendan has some top advise

What finishes can I spray?

That'll depend on the size of the needle and tip of the gun.

2.0mm ish for spray putty, 1.6 ish for acrylic lacquer, 1.2ish for enamel.

Be prepared for needle and tip sets (if not all bundled with the gun) to be priced as if they were solid gold.

I prefer a gravity feed gun over a suction gun.

update, I was walking around masters looking for spray guns and found this

I Need A HVLP Paint Spray Gun 600W - Masters Home Improvement

for $22.80 I bought it for giggles and applied some acrylic primer last night, seemed okay for primer.

I've got some PTO here, can I dilute that and spray that through the gun? Will give it a try and report back.

On Air Compressors

I've narrowed my choice down to two

Either

Colt 10AMP Belt Drive Air Compressor COLT312 - Masters Home Improvement

or

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onl...om=80101#Cross

I'm leaning towards the colt at this stage as its a better brand and comes with filtration straight out of the box.

Hi guys,

Just an update, I've purchased the Stanley compressor, two cheap gravity fed guns and a 4L can of Mirotone 3220 Clear PC Lacquers.

Trying to decide on the thinner to purchase, the Mirotone thinners are $58 for a 4L can of medium thinners and general purpose is $60 for a 20L drum.

Do i need to stick with the Mirotone thinners or an I okay with going for a generic lacquer thinner?

What should I be using to clean my gun after use?

Originally Posted by kenny12

Trying to decide on the thinner to purchase, the Mirotone thinners are $58 for a 4L can of medium thinners and general purpose is $60 for a 20L drum.

Do i need to stick with the Mirotone thinners or an I okay with going for a generic lacquer thinner?

Manufacturers always bang on about how you should use their thinners and nothing else. Usually, its true, but not always. I use Wattyl Stylwood PC Lacquer and have found that it sprays, finishes and cleans up much better with Supercheap Autos el-cheapo thinners then with the recommended Wattyl thinners. On the other hand, I also use Wattyl NC Readiseal and it gums up straight away unless I use the recommended Wattyl thinner. So I guess the answer is you don't know till you give it a try.
$58 for a 4l can of thinners is ridiculous. Why not buy a can from Supercheap ($22, or $15 when on special) and give it a try. Even if it doesn't work with Mirotone, you will always use it, even if for just cleaning up the gun or spills or whatever.

Originally Posted by kenny12

What should I be using to clean my gun after use?

Any thinners, including the cheap ones.

cheers
Arron

I should also point out that if you've bought a can of lacquer, and are intending to spray it direct, then you are doing it the hard way. Get a sealer, spray that first, and then the lacquer on top. Usually, the sealers are quicker to spray, more forgiving, much easier to sand and get smooth, and they are cheaper. You don't have to worry about dust or bugs or even runs (well, within reason) with a good sealer - because most of it is going to soak in and what doesn't will be sanded off anyway. Also much less likely to get air bubbles.

Once you've done a couple of coats of sealer, got it well covered, it'll sand back like a dream, then do a couple of coats of lacquer (without sanding or messing with it).

I also think that you get a better looking finish by sealing properly first. The way I think of it is that the sealer is below the surface while the finish lacquer is above the surface. If you get what is right below the surface first, then the finish coats can be thinner and less numerous, so harder and less plastic looking.

The only proviso to this is that I'm not familiar with Mirotone. Held true for the other types of lacquer I've used.