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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Sydney
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    215

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    A skilled woodworker gave me a tip that is less messy than using marbles.

    Cut a disc from bubble wrap the same size as the tin/container and lay it in the surface of the finish. Works for me.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Canberra
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    1,301

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougsshed View Post
    Another trick I've heard but haven't tried yet is adding marbles to the container after each use. This brings the liquid level back up to the lid level thus expelling most of the air. Marbles don't cost much either. Ball bearings would also do the trick.

    Good idea, but you couldn't get them into (or out of) Minwax cans.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Hoddles Creek
    Posts
    65

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrism3 View Post
    Good idea, but you couldn't get them into (or out of) Minwax cans.
    Ball bearings come in lots of different sizes

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,790

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    Another gas that can be used is CO2 so if you have something an old soda syphon around that would work.
    It might not work so well on anything water based as these would absorb the CO2 by for anything solvent/oil based it supposedly works fine.
    Nitrogen also works although the chances of having that on hand is low.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,773

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    This is an on going and very old question.

    most of the solutions are likewise old ...... most of them marginally effective.

    Lots of finishes will degrade, regardless even unopened in the original container....... particularly the reactive finishes with metalic driers.

    BY far the best option is to buy only enough that you will use it all quickly.

    Air makes everything worse ....... another problem is the lids on cans failing to reseal for various reasons.

    decanting larger tins into smaller ones right from the start or as the unused portion larger can becomes small enough.

    I buy clean unused cans from my auto refinish supplier.

    I am in the habit of buying a 20 liter of a popular etch prime undercoat, ..... I decant into a new, clean, screw top 5 liter mower fuel type can and pour out from that for small tasks.

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,773

    Default

    This is an on going and very old question.

    most of the solutions are likewise old ...... most of them marginally effective.

    Lots of finishes will degrade, regardless even unopened in the original container....... particularly the reactive finishes with metalic driers.

    BY far the best option is to buy only enough that you will use it all quickly.

    Air makes everything worse ....... another problem is the lids on cans failing to reseal for various reasons.

    decanting larger tins into smaller ones right from the start or as the unused portion larger can becomes small enough.

    I buy clean unused cans from my auto refinish supplier.

    I am in the habit of buying a 20 liter of a popular etch prime undercoat, ..... I decant into a new, clean, screw top 5 liter mower fuel type can and pour out from that for small tasks.

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Laharum Victoria
    Posts
    45

    Default

    I use wine cask bladders.
    Good fun emptying them, would have heaps more if they came filled with beer.
    Simple with a large opening to fill.
    Also use them for water when camping, fill them up and freeze in any shape you like and is usable water when thawed.
    Cheers
    John T

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