Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 68
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Adelaide Hills
    Age
    66
    Posts
    3,803

    Default

    Rob,

    I hope youre having better luck with the finish on your solid bodies than Im having on the french polish job on my current classical.

    Might be good to meet up for a coffee and have a communal moan on our respective finishing woes.

    Cheers Martin
    Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Surges Bay Tasmania - the DEEP SOUTH!
    Age
    62
    Posts
    1,180

    Default

    Nitro celluose laquer the coating of choice for guitar makers...
    hard, clear, durable and proof of water and moisture....

    u need multiple coats like 10-15 with sanding and buffinig bewtween....

    check
    www.stewmac.com
    www.lmii.com

    i have some i got for turning form a specialst supplie store in Brisbane, its toxic but great....

    cheeeeeers
    john

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Sellicks Beach, S.A.
    Age
    66
    Posts
    135

    Default

    Hi Martin
    Your on for a coffee sometime!

    John
    I regularly drool over the Stewmac catalog. I buy fretwire, tools, some fretboards, some pickups, pickup surrounds etc from them. The problem with their finishing supplies is that they won't/can't ship outside of the US, hence my search for local alternatives. I'm getting nice results with the Mirlac Semi-satin for neck. The Semi-gloss isn't all that speccy... similar to Cabothane satin in the poly's.
    Rob

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    2

    Default

    I use Miratone nitro laquer on all my guitars.I did have a blushing problen at first but got over this by using one of their thinners which slowed down the drying process slightly. I use a small cheap compressor and an HVLP spray gun and have had good results.After sanding I buff with Stewmac compounds and I get a pretty good finish. Guitar finishing step by step is a great source of information which is available from Stewmac. My biggest problem now is the general unavailability of oil based grain fillers, I don't like the water based types They are just knot filler which are diluted and don't in my opinion any do half as good a job as the oil based ones.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,773

    Default

    Ian, I have been asking into the question of grain fillers my self and have the same dilema. Either find one or get to & brew one.
    Mirotone list a grain filler have you looked into it.
    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    2

    Default Water based fillers YUK:

    Hello Soundman,
    I am afraid its a water based filler Mirotone sell I was using Wattyl tinted with Stewmac dyes and it worked very well under Nitro full gloss. I think that they may still make it but I can"t seem to find any..

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Sellicks Beach, S.A.
    Age
    66
    Posts
    135

    Default

    You might try Feast-Watson sanding sealer is great if you're not planning to stain the timber. I've used it on some Tassie blackwood, Fijian mahogany and Queensland maple, all finished with semi-gloss Miralac rattle can spray with good results. I tried using my usual Wattyl gel stain on some Hoop pine that was sealed with the Feast-Watson sanding sealer and it was a blotchy blushy disaster, so I guess oil and water just don't mix! :confused:
    Rob

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    midwest, US
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Hey Rob, there are some other options out there, but nitro lacquer was always the standard. A lot of guys are talking about this stuff in the link.

    http://www.graftedcoatings.com/wood_...tm9.asp?iid=25

    I'm pretty sure most of them have sprayed it, but looking at the site just now it says it can be brushed on. Personally I think it would be a good idea to invest in some spray equipment as in general you'll get better results. Apparently this stuff is a water base that's supposed to act more like a lacquer, as in it "melts' into the previous coat to build up a film finish. Don't know if you can get it where you're at.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Sellicks Beach, S.A.
    Age
    66
    Posts
    135

    Default

    Hi rockinrob

    KTM gets good reviews in the Musical Instrument Makers' Forum too. At the moment I'm using rattlecans of semi-gloss Miralac and it's working well. Not full gloss but easy to use and an acceptable result.
    Rob

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,773

    Default

    One thing that has come to light recently in my world is resene water bassed polyeurathane clear.
    I haven't tried it yet my self but "magic murf" has been giving it a good go for a while & he recons it is very promising. can be brushed...... but when sprayed comes up very nicely.... more laquery than varnishy.... close to no smell and there is no way it is going to pull solvent bassed stains.
    could be worth a look, i'll be giving it a go when I have some time.
    not sure about resene's southern contact info but aust head office is on the gold coast.
    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    157

    Default

    Was talking with resene last week, they said the paint i was after would take 4-6 weeks to ship from new zealand.

    So if you need something they don't have in oz it might pay to inquire.

    Attachment 27615

    HJ0 Cheers
    Last edited by HJ0; 16th August 2006 at 08:45 PM.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    midwest, US
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Sorry, I'm not familiar with Miralac- is it NC in a can? I think spray cans do an alright job, and if you're going to rub out the finish getting a smooth coat from the gun (or aerosol) isn't that big a deal. I've seen some that looked a bit cloudy, but some that didn't. It's just that I'd think doing everything with spray cans would be expensive in the long run, especially if you're doing a couple of guitars a week. And you'd have more control with a spray setup.


    BTW- about the oil based pore fillers, have you ever thought of trying a 2 part epoxy? I've always used the oil base stuff (Bartley's), but I think I'm going to thry a product called Z-Poxy soon. I know you can get that product in the UK, so it maybe available where you guys are. If not, I'm sure you'd have something worakable. I'm looking into it because I'm looking more into waterbased finishes -not for guitars, for cabinets (with guitars I'm still partial to NC). But if the Z-poxy works I wouldn't hesitate to use it on guitars, many people love it.

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Adelaide, South Australia
    Age
    68
    Posts
    38

    Default

    Hi all, new here and stumbled on to this exciting forum through Mr. Google.
    I was getting the feelers out looking for a nitro cellulose spray for my latest project, an old SaeHan acoustic/electric guitar.

    Fixed the broken neck and head by carefully 'pinning' with dowel and using Selleys 308 Melamine Formaldihyde glue, then staining with Mahogany several times to get a deep mask to hide the repair cracks and so forth.

    Attempted to use a spray lacquer I bought at a local Auto Accessories place thinking this would set hard but its more like a polyurethane skin which would no doubt take ages to cure to a hard finish.

    Hit it with Wet 'n' Dry 2000 and then my favourite finishing polish to get that 'wet' looking gloss, Carnauba. But alas, once you've used the guitar for a session it smudges badly and you're forever bring out the polishing cloth.

    On close inspection with powerful Opti-Visor lens so I can work hands free, can see scratches on the body which are awfully hard to remove with 2000 and no matter how many coats of carnauba I use, it doesn't want to fill in the scratches.

    So thinking bugger it, time to look into cleaning the whole guitar, getting the masking tape out and hit it with Nitro Cellulose.

    Rang around to no avail, so could anyone from Adelaide please contact me and let me know if I can get a couple of NC spraycans?

    Time to attack this baby with the real thing, sick of messing with 'skin' type lacquers that don't have anywhere near the gloss I have on this guitar already, like chalk and cheese in comparison.

    The gold plated machine head tuners are sitting waiting to be fitted but won't do it until this sucker glows.

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,773

    Default

    The only "proper" laquer that I know of that comes in a spray tin is made by mirotone, they have branches in most capital cities.
    OR
    Timbecon in WA have it in their catalogue.

    the other option is to get realy dedicated do it in hard white shelac.

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Sellicks Beach, S.A.
    Age
    66
    Posts
    135

    Default

    Hi all

    Miralac is an aerosol pre-cat nitro semi-gloss ... easy to use. Doesn't shine like a full gloss but it's simple to use and cheap. Retail is around $10 a can including GST. They sell direct at 135 Mooringe Avenue, Camden Park.

    If I ever get to the point of spraying more than 4 bodies a week it might be worth getting a proper spray setup, but for what I want I'd spend more time cleaning the gun than actually spraying! ;-) My last few instruments have actually been finished in the semi-satin Miralac and I quite like the finish. Not everything needs to have that PRS "dipped in molten glass" look. If you go into the MIMF library and look for some of Ellie Erickson's work I think she's right on the money.

    Wasn't it Bob Taylor who made the comment about how someone discovered that by spraying the guitar, sanding it back, spraying some more, sanding some more, etc... eventually the guitar would be really really shiny. He said we need to find that person and shoot them.
    Rob

Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Thin Oak boards wanted
    By HaydnG in forum TIMBER
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 15th April 2006, 07:21 PM
  2. Durable, natural finish for pine wanted
    By derekcohen in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 3rd August 2004, 09:28 PM
  3. Hard wearing glossy finish for pens
    By LPeterStacey in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 13th May 2004, 08:25 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •