Thread: Timbermate and sanding sealer

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <wompatibility> <wreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <wseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> </wompatibility> <wrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</wrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> Depending on your blocks' intended purpose and likely subjection to handling and abrasion, you might be better off building up a thin layer of gesso on the blocks similar to the hard smooth base required for gilding on. Gesso is as cheap as it gets and very easy to apply and smooth.

Thanks Woodwould, but I don't think that would be tough enough. the blocks are being used by kids as pegboards, on tables, floors etc.

Does anyone know if sanding sealer will fill the end grain of radiata pine, or should I use Timbermate, then apply sanding sealer?

When gilding, gesso is traditionally made with rabbitskin glue, however, for your purposes Jill, ordinary animal glue will more than suffice. Cover the dry glue with an equal weight of water and when it's been absorbed, heat it and thin it in the order of one part glue to ten of water. Add sufficient whiting to make a substance akin to thin cream.

Brush 3-5 coats of gesso onto the wood and smooth with very fine abrasive paper. This will produce a thin, baby-bottom-smooth and resilient surface which you can then paint over.

this forum is amazing! the things you learn

I have never heard of gesso before, so will now look in to it. Can you buy it off the shelf, or do you have to make it like WW indicates above?

Originally Posted by JillB

this forum is amazing! the things you learn

I have never heard of gesso before, so will now look in to it. Can you buy it off the shelf, or do you have to make it like WW indicates above?

You can buy cold 'synthetic' gesso (acrylic, or some such horrid stuff) which shares only its colour and no other properties with true gesso. I think it's intended for artists to treat canvasses with and should not be used for the task in hand.

Jill - Look up gesso in the index of the book. there's a whole section devoted to it and its uses, including use as a grain filler, for gilding, and decorative finishes. There are 2 gesso's used in the book one made with pva which can be used as a tough durable finish in its own right and hide glue gesso as described by Woodwould.

Cheers - Neil