Thread: Tungoil with Polyurethane topcoat.

I often use a mixture of tung oil, poly, and boiled linseed oil as a finish. They work well when mixed together, so I can't imagine you'd need anything in between.

Also interested in this - I need a finish for a day-to-day coffee table that will no doubt get liquid spilled on it, hot mugs sat on it, etc.

I like the penetrating effect of Rustins Danish Oil, so I would use a couple of coats of this first. Final coat to be wet sanded with 600 grit to act as a grain filler. Let it penetrate/dry thoroughly ( a week?), then apply 3-4 coats of satin Minwax Wipe-On Poly to give the top more protection??

Has anyone tried this combo?? Are these finishes compatible, or will the whole thing just explode??

Cheers

I've done a couple of table tops that were french polished, with Estapol over the top after a clean and sand.

So it's heat resistant but over time the scratches build up and can't be repaired. It has to be stripped back and refinished.

If I was doing it again I'd think about

1. ubeaut Hard Shellac
2. a DO with a higher prop of resins than Rustins (eg. FW Scandinavian oil) as Rustins isn't esp durable, prob wet sanded for grain filling

I'd never poly over the top again. Looks cheap.