Thread: Ultra Shine Problem

You don't let it dry at all. It is a buffing compound.

Here are some tips:

EEE-Ultra Shine (cut 'n' polish paste wax)

Ahhh...it always helps if you know what you're doing. My limited experience with buffing relates to waxes...you rub it on, let it dry, then buff it out. Ive got a lot to learn.

So I need to use my rag that I'm applying the Ultrashine with and continue to rub/buff it in...until it starts to shine? Makes perfect sense. Thanks so much...and correct me if I've taken a wrong turn in my description.

thanks, again!!

Use more of the same product over the dried area. The solvents in the new product will assist in absorbing any dried paste.

Of course this must then be buffed out completely.

Thanks to all for the help. I'm back on track...thx to ya'll.

Originally Posted by bryanfaz

Ahhh...it always helps if you know what you're doing. My limited experience with buffing relates to waxes...you rub it on, let it dry, then buff it out. Ive got a lot to learn.

So I need to use my rag that I'm applying the Ultrashine with and continue to rub/buff it in...until it starts to shine? Makes perfect sense. Thanks so much...and correct me if I've taken a wrong turn in my description.

thanks, again!!

No, you need a buffing mop on the end of a drill, the 4"one will be fine. This will bring it up to a great finish if you have done the sanding to at least 400 and much better if 600 or greater. EEE will not keep its shine for more than about two weeks so will need a finish over the top. I use Shellawax cream that also needs to be buffed in with a buffing mop, then finish with Traditional Wax, all from U-Beat. O so smooth and nice.

SB

Hi bryanafaz.
Don't let the previous post mislead you. Shellawax is to be used on bare wood and not over the top of poly.
If I had your problem I'd soften the dried Ultrashine by wiping with a rag damped with mineral spirit. Doesn't matter if you removes some or all the of the Ultrashine. Then reapply fresh Ultrashine and buff out immediately.
Sure you can buff it out with a rag in the hand if you have enough time and stamina to do that to a tabletop, but I'd be using a buffing mop in a drill as SB suggested.

To use the EEE on a table top or other peice that is not on the lathe then you have to apply the friction in another way to first melt the paste then make the EEE get a finer fnish. Elbow grease will not be enough.

As indicated do not let dry as this makes the job a lot harder.

A couple of alternatives is a swandsdown mop mounted on a mandrel then used in a drill .

Another option is a buffing mop on your random orbital sander.

Do a small area at a time as you will not be able to keep the heat over a large area.

Thanks superbunny. Ive been using a handheld buffer. But...I think my problem goes a little deeper than I realized. My topcoat is Minwax Poly...my wood is Poplar (wouldn't be my choice for a tabletop...but, wasn't my decision). Not only is my wood softer than a typical tabletop, I haven't given the poly enough time to harden completely. I read somewhere over the weekend that if I can smell the poly, it hasn't hardened. I can still smell the poly.

I'm going to give it as much time as it takes...to stop smelling the poly...then give it another shot. I'll advise afterwards. Thanks again to all who provided input. Much appreciated!!!!

At this time of year, 5-7 days should be enough drying time for poly before buffing. The smell test is good but there are also variations in people's sensitivity to smell.

It sounds like you are after a gloss finish? if this is the case then you may need to apply another coat to undo the damage caused by premature buffing.
Then, after the prescribed drying time, I would start with EEE to remove any dust particles etc (assuming the finish is good other than for dust). Once smooth, you could buff the poly directly or with a hard wearing wax.

BTW, make sure that you level the tabletop with a spirit level before applying the poly. This will ensure the poly settles evenly on the top.

You need to remove the EEE with mineral spirits or it won't allow the poly to completely dry as the wax will be excluding the air from the finish.

If you use a buff you need to use a low speed as high speed could melt the poly is basically just a plastic coating which can be affected by heat of the buffing. As it's the dead of winter in the US at the moment it could take a while for the poly to fully cure especially if it's in the shed in the cold.

Cold will also make it harder to work with most wax finishes.

I'm in Houston at the moment and today it's only 34F here so it's bloody cold and if it's that cold here you can bet your life it'll be colder elsewhere in the USA.

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers - Neil

Thanks...all great suggestions!!!