Using waterbased clear estapol in the kitchen.

**Stuart** · 2nd May 2006, 11:58 AM

Hi guys,
A colleague at work has a query about finishing cupboards for his kitchen, and I offered to put it here on the forum for the experts to come up with an informed opinion

He is worried about the durability in the kitchen setting (food acids etc), but also about keeping the colouring of the wood. Anyway - here is his question, replys gratefully received

Thanks for offering to put my query on you woodworking discussion forum. Here's what I'm trying to decide:
We've got a dark timber floor (Karri floorboard) and have chosen a light timber (European Beech) for the kitchen. The kitchen maker has recommended that we use a two-pack polyurethane/estapol for durability and resistance. I tried a couple of different things last weekend and found that a normal estapol tends to make the timber look to dark, and the best look I got was from a Wattyl waterbased clear estapol. I've also been told by the Wattyl people that water based doesn't yellow as much over the years and that normal esapols/polyurethanes will. I guess what I will have to decide is whether I want to go with the looks and pick something that's less durable, or go for durability put put up with a darker look and yellowing over time.
If there's anyone in your forum who know a good product that will keep the original look of the European Beech but is tough enough, I'd really appreciate their advice. A friend recently also suggested that I could try a light lime wash and put a two-pack estapol over the top, the idea being that the bleached lime look would offset the yellowing/darkening, but but I have no idea how that would work, because the white wash/liming I've seen always has a bit of a bleached and swirly look.
Any advice from the experts would be greatly appreciated.

**Stuart** · 4th May 2006, 06:43 PM

no one?

**Neil Hodge** · 23rd May 2006, 11:57 PM

Stuart, I am no expert, but in my experience most finishes will darken with time(particularly the harder ones). Acrylic or water based Polyurethane does'nt seem to do this and although not as hard as the solvent based finishes, it isn't too bad and about the same hardness as catalysd lacquer (Ithink). Someone will probably shoot me down in flames for this, but at leastyou will get another opinion.

Neil

**durwood** · 24th May 2006, 08:13 PM

I used an automotive 2 pack clear on tassie oak over 8 years ago and it hasn't looked like changing colour, Its designed not to as it wouldn't be very popular with car owners if it changed colour. Its neally as hard as the estapol.

If you take a piece of your timber to a Panel beater and ask if the painter can put a couple of coats on it for you from whats left over from a repair job you will get an idea instantly as to what colour you will have forever. Neally all car repairs especially metallic colours are coated in clear and a small piece of wood say a square foot would only use a tea spoon of colour, usually the painter has to misx morethan that up to make sure he dosn't run out in the middle of the job. Should do it for nothing if you know the guy or ask nicely.

If you are happy with the resultsd get the clear with slow hardener , this will give you time to brush it on if thats what you intend.

By the way the Tassie oak is on a veteran car so it gets exposed to weather which is an even better test for yellowing.

If you need more info let me know I can take a picture if it helps.

**rsser** · 26th May 2006, 04:38 PM

UV will darken the timber regardless of what the finish does.

Apart from that, Estapol is easily scratched and hard to repair. I've had to completely strip a blackwood dining table and redo twice. Next time I'll use Rustin's Danish Oil. Yes, the DO darkens the timber but it is much more durable not to mention reparable.

**RETIRED** · 26th May 2006, 05:44 PM

I used this on our motorhome bench tops (blackwood) and have found it excellent and easy to apply.

http://www.haymespaint.com.au/haymes/main.php?c=200

**durwood** · 26th May 2006, 08:15 PM

If you need to have something scratch resistant then polyurethane is the hardest coating you can easily put on in the DIY situation. The reason Estapol was suggested was that it works better than just about everything else hence the use on timber floors requiring scratch resistant finish.

But its meant for interior use and it has a yellow tint due to the resin colour and it doesn't need to be UV resistant inside (even Shellac work inside). Stuarts friend wants a colourless clear for interior use so UV doesn't come into it.

Polyurethanes can be easily touched up, refinished and have scratches removed if you have the right materials. Don't forget you can even remove scratches from glass with the right compounds.

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