clear water proof finish over shellac

**justwantin** · 23rd November 2013, 01:39 PM

I make japanese andon style laterns from radiata pine. They are light timber frame 12x12mm and 6x12mm and paneled with paper. Brush stain and finish takes too long with mediocre results so I tried airbrushing using Cabot water base stains and polyurethane; 2-1 to 3-1 stain/poly water mix will work with airbrush but getting adequate coverage and time between stain re-coat were problematic to start with as well as a trendency for rough and or orange peel poly finish.

I like the the way orange shellac pumpkins, i.e. ages, the pine and spray shellac is no problem, however, most people I show the lanterns to prefer dark stain. Today I tried a small batch of 'u Beaut shellac and 10% FW's japan brown tint. It worked great on sample piece and quick time drying allowed recoat and evening out coverage without overspray runs.

I'm now looking for suggestions as to what to use for a finish coat. I'm not interested in a slick gloss or s'gloss finish, just something protect the shellac from moisture/water damage. Water base poly is out (as described above) and I'd prefer not to even try an oil base clear poly. Can anyone suggest an alternative they may have experience with that would dry quickly like shellac does and which can be airbrushed?

Thanks in advance

**tea lady** · 23rd November 2013, 06:54 PM

Shellac a pretty good finish. Why do you want more? Spray lacquer dries pretty quick, and comes in varying shinienesses.

**justwantin** · 23rd November 2013, 07:18 PM

Thanks for the reply. I have sold andons for interior use with candles or LED circuits I also put together but I have had people ask for andons to hang outdoors on verandahs. or use on outdoor table tops. The paper I use comes from Japan and is moisture resistant. The paper can stand up to a shot from a garden hose but water or mist may ruin the plain old orange shellac finish.

I don't know anything about lacquers and thought I might get a heads up here. There is also a hard shellac but I've never used the stuff and its a bit dear to purchase before knowing if it will do the job.

**astrid** · 23rd November 2013, 07:31 PM

If they are not going to be permanently outside, consider danish oil. You should be able to get 3 coats per day.

Where you can use a thin coat of shellac as a primary coat to seal the timber, I don't think other finished will bond well as a topcoat over a shellac finish it will scratch off . Well I don't know of any

Dewaxed shellac is harder but I don't know if it will take a wetting without being dried off pretty quickly.
However you can buy small bottles 500ml for about 13 bucks. Just to test it. or make your own.

**justwantin** · 23rd November 2013, 08:18 PM

I have used water base polyurethane over this shellac without any problem as far as have I noticed to date. I know oil base polyurethane can be used over shellac as that was standard when I did comm. fitout in the US: oil base stain > shellac > polyurethane on unfinished doors. Water base doesn't apply well with airbrush unless overly cut with water, and I'm trying to avoid oil base poly. Most of my furniture furniture is refinished with danish oil over oil int. stain. I've never used it outside though, I'd have to research that one.

Edit: After a bit of searching on hard shellac I came across a post in this forum which indicates that hard shellac as a final air brushed coat or two will probably be good enough for what I want. I would expect that I can apply it over x coats of stinted shellac made from u beaut flakes. The thread is here: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f9/ube...y-test-126072/

Thanks astrid and tea lady for your input

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