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  1. #91
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    May 2007
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    Thanks Mike and Good one ,time will make things a bit better ,as far as breaking something like a guitar goes.
    Things could be a lot worse for us woodies,I know a guy ,different than the last time I mentioned this,who vaporised three fingers in an over head router ,He was searching through the saw dust holding a rag over his wounds looking for fingers,nothing to be found,

    Yeah Steve, the shavings are a funny thing, I cant help but stop and spread one out, hold it to the light and think if only I could use it somewhere .

    The timber I used for binding I played with a bit, and found that it would almost make the tight bends with no heat, but would snap if not heated, it is 6.1mm x 1.8mm and probably scrapes back to 5 x 1.5 when dry, I would think any bigger would make things harder and pre bending is possibly the way to go,or do the binding in two bits,

    Pre bending was going to be my next step if what I tried did not work ,so I started and just kept going,where the back bends down going around the upper bout is a problem erea though, if next time I use plane tree and I will be keeping an eye out for 900 mm logs, I would try steaming the binding into a curve first to match the curve of the back then lay it on the same way, this stuff is a good bender ,a bit like beech I think,
    I'd be happy to post you a bit Monday morning,for nothing, if you pm me an address ,all the stuff I have is short so it has to be joined for binding,one bitt will do three or four guitars, I buzzed it,then sawed it up with a 2mm blade on my table saw then through the sander ,then a simple jig on my bench to sand the bottom edge where it joined the body,
    Rob.

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  3. #92
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    Oct 2008
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    Thanks for the offer Rob. It certainly looks nice against the darker back and sides. I might hit you up for some when you turn up a longer piece.

    I think I may have even seen a London Plane tree yesterday after doing a little bit of reading on the species. I was driving so didn't get a chance to go back and verify. Funny how you notice different things with new knowledge.

    I definitely like how your guitar mold can be used to hold the body in a vice. I was scraping mine recently with the guitar on the floor between my knees while I sat on a milk crate!

  4. #93
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    May 2007
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    I spent a lot of time this week checking scale length, string spacing,putting it on templates, and comparing to bridge position and neck to body join, instead of making two more jigs for the neck I thought I would try to cut by hand,and leave the neck shaping till later,once I had the angle right,then I could lay the scale length from the bridge to the nut,mark out the rest of the neck and cut, I think I had to do it this way because I had left so little room for error by making my bridge plate smaller
    Attachment 155436 Attachment 155437 Attachment 155438

    cutting the neck end went well, I then used this to mark out the body and used the router to take out the waste,and shaved it in with the chisel, got in to trouble though,took off too much down at the thin end on the left.

    Attachment 155439

    Ended up I had to fill the left end about one third from the back, at the bottom half. I made up a 2 pack epoxy with saw dust mix , next day cut back to the right line and fitted the neck, had to shim the thing twice, most of wich was sanded off, ended up dead on line and rock solid,after six hours

    Later I realised I have made my dovetail to long so that the gap does not sit under the 15 th fret which is only a problem for doing a neck re set,I think ? then got to thinking about a neck re set, and thought the only way you could do a re set with a truss rod is remove the fret board first, then take out the truss rod ,steam out the neck,adjust and put back together, is that right ?

    Marked out the rest of the neck and roughed out on the band saw, did that thing lose some weight ! then shaped it to within 1 mm, cant get over what how thin it is without the fret board and strings, sat down and did some pretend strumming.

  5. #94
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    I did it again . Looking forward to building a jig for next time . cheers Rob

  6. #95
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    Jul 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post

    Later I realised I have made my dovetail to long so that the gap does not sit under the 15 th fret which is only a problem for doing a neck re set,I think ? then got to thinking about a neck re set, and thought the only way you could do a re set with a truss rod is remove the fret board first, then take out the truss rod ,steam out the neck,adjust and put back together, is that right ?
    All looking good Rob,

    A hand cut dovetail...I take my hat off to you Sir!

    Re your concerns....if it comes to a neck re-set the important thing is that there is a bit of space between the end of the tenon and the back of the mortise to allow some steam to be pumped in. The steam is pumped in via a hole drilled down at an angle through the nearest fret slot (fret removed)...this will be either the 12th or 14th fret depending on instrument design. No need to remove the fretboard. The hole is drilled to one side of the fret slot to avoid hitting the truss rod.
    Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)

  7. #96
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    Dec 2008
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    Niddrie Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwigeo View Post
    All looking good Rob,

    A hand cut dovetail...I take my hat off to you Sir! .
    I'd like to second that.

    And I look forward to learning that skill, and I have to confess that I find that work bench quite impressive as well, it's a beauty.
    <style type="text/css">p { margin-bottom: 0.25cm; line- 120%; }</style> Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. Abert_Einstein.


  8. #97
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    Thanks Martin and Wal, Wal, the bench I made about fifteen years back,Jarrah with Red Gum threads.
    The guitar with roughed out neck fitted
    Attachment 155545 Attachment 155546

    Roughed the heel and sides in the vice with gouge , block plane and spoke shave,then glued down at three points with Loctite with paper in between
    Attachment 155547 Attachment 155548

    Sharpened the curved end of this scraper by holding square on the linisher,more scraping and spoke shave work ,and then snapped it of at the paper join
    Attachment 155549 Attachment 155550 Attachment 155551

    cheers Rob

  9. #98
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    Oct 2008
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    Looks great Rob, excellent progress.

  10. #99
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    May 2007
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    Made up the truss rod and covered it in heat shrink
    Attachment 155991 Attachment 155992 Attachment 155993

    Did the trench with the little Makita, would use a router next time, with a longer bit
    and a thicker template , just like the book sugested, I had to muck about with this set up,
    Attachment 155994 Attachment 155995 Attachment 155996

    Attachment 155997 Attachment 155998

    Did a bit of a finish on the top, I gave it a wipe over with Oxalic acid to remove some oxide stains,fine sand with 400 , a wipe with glue size ,dry of with heat gun , fine sand, then about four quick goes with a rubber with blonde shellac and the UB hard shellac mixed in.

    Then set up the table saw and a jig to cut the fret slots with the new blade for frets,did the first cut to find it was too wide ,the blade was not clamped in right and had a slight wobble, lucky I had left the fret board too long. cheers Rob

  11. #100
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    Sep 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    Yeah Steve, the shavings are a funny thing, I cant help but stop and spread one out, hold it to the light and think if only I could use it somewhere .
    I hate disposing of my rosewood and ebony shavings....they are so long and curly and awesome...

    Quote Originally Posted by kiwigeo View Post
    A hand cut dovetail...I take my hat off to you Sir!
    I also have to take my hat off to that effort, nice one

  12. #101
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Newark, Ohio, USA
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    Nice job on the neck Rob. How did the hard shellac do mixed in with the regular shellac? Will you be using straight hard shellac for the top coats? Some really great work going on in the forum, Steve's guitar is really shaping up and did you see the pictures Martin posted of his work? Great stuff ! Hope you and everyone in the forum has a Merry Christmas. Mike

  13. #102
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    May 2007
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    Thanks Andrew and Mike, we do a fair bit of hand dovetails at work, so I thought I would give it a go ,very touchy going though with all the different directions it has to be lined up.
    I did a post on the finishing section and asked about the mixing of hard shellac and normal, was told it will work but alters the hardness at the end,so went with it, probably will mix through to the end,am going to take off the coats that I put on the top and start again , noticed a bit that needs a sand,Yeah saw Martins thread ,looked very nice, almost added to it but noticed it had been put on a while back and the question was being asked about jigs for neck joins. Thanks for the Merry Christmas Mike ,same to you from down under, what's the temperature where you are at the moment, and do you have snow? cheers Rob

  14. #103
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    May 2007
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    I sawed my fretboard on the table saw with the Stewmac blade and template made to register on a brass strip,had a problem with the blade not seating right, it had a wobble, luckily it was to long so moved it along after fixing the blade, this was the start of my problems . After checking dimensions glued it down with the hide glue.Attachment 156616 Attachment 156617

    Next day took off clamps and saw gaps between neck and fretboard, also a crack in the ebony from 11th to 19th fret that moved when pushed, glued on the veneer at the head, that cupped and did not seat well and realized my glue was to thick and was gelling to fast ,and that was what caused the problems with the neck, also by rushing in to it I had not read the instruction to put a convex curve in the caul that pressed the fretboard down,so I took off the veneer at the head , thinned the glue down and re glued
    Attachment 156618 Attachment 156619


    The fret board came off with the iron and knife , was amazed to see how much had not made contact when I flipped it over, and the crack went right through, and the neck had warped a bit as well.

    Attachment 156620 Attachment 156621 Attachment 156622

    I had two more ebony boards to choose from ,these were from Stewmac and the grain seemed better than the first board which I got from a different supplier here,I spent a lot more time checking the position,and got it a little more accurate than the first,set up my little spot lights and with the help of glasses test fitted it ,pinned it in two spots through where dot markers will be and used extra cauls, still had not checked the book to read about the convex caul that should have been usedand decided that I was not going to risk it and used two pack to glue it down, not proud of that, if it has to come off it will be with a chisel and plane
    Attachment 156623
    Clamps came off the next day and it looks good .

  15. #104
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    I like the look of the Ebony fretboard Rob, really contrasts well with the top. Shame about the split but looks like it wasn't too difficult to remove the board first time.

    It's funny how after various deviations in sequence our builds have now come back together.

  16. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevemc32 View Post
    It's funny how after various deviations in sequence our builds have now come back together.
    Yeah it is a funny thing.
    I will be taking off for a ten days tomorrow, thinking of taking the build to the bush and doing the polish job, I bought a case for it off ebay, just have to get the back of the neck finished and a final sand to the body,I will see what interesting pictures I can take polishing on the land.
    Cheers Rob

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