Thread: Need advice on stripping paint! PLEASE HELP!

Your not getting much help there dude, are you !
I checked your other posts as well .
That looks like a real pain of a strip job, the way to want to do it I mean, take off one layer , leave the original, get around all that metal, and its in a cylinder.

I would think the fast way is strip the lot [ inside ] and hose as well, but if your prepared to spend a long time and get a good job your going to have to play with a little at a time and experiment.

Try a little warm water on a rag and rub with a finger hard on a spot and see if it moves, it probably wont .
It looks like it would be an acrylic white, it should move with metho on a rag with finger, see if you can rub off and leave your original finish.

If it does come off well like that, you could try the old , linseed oil 20% turps 60 % metho 20% mix, it works well taking off later polish colour jobs that are on top of original french polish jobs, shake it and try on a spot with fine steel wool. If you see your original finish looking good buff it dry with a rag

Some suggest using pure turps with the mix, and I have read that acetic acid which is in vinegar can be mixed with it

If the original finish was a dry or porus coat it may not work well at all

good luck with it and let me know how it goes.

cheers Rob

I used to work for Haymes Paints back in the 80s/90s
Have a look at this product
Haymes Paint: Unistrip
With stripping paint from a timber substrate, I'd steer clear of the water cleanup
Gently remove as much stripper affected paint with a scraper that wont be affected by the stripper, then clean up with metho, replacing the rag or whatever you're using, several times so that you're thoroughly removing any stripper residue out of the pores of the timber
This will help ensure any new coating will adhere to the timber
Hope this is of help
Dave

A plastic putty knife or body filler smoother works well when getting the stripped finish off.
You are going to remove the hardware first aren't you?

There's some valuable advice from auscab. Well done & seconded. Likewise all metal removal.
I'd recommend if your in any doubt about your ability to do this take it to someone who has the expertise, perhaps someone in here who you could oversee or at least see examples of their work? The manufacturer may also shed some light. They look like vintage Ludwig and are perhaps a mixed set? 1961 -'68 these were normally made up of mahog. pop. mahog. yadda yadda. More here: Ludwig Timeline
That said: we've used Callington Haven for well over 30 years now with excellent results. Mostly on veneered pianos & the odd stick or two but never on the guts of a drum.
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Personally, would not advise an amatuer to go anywhere near it. Reminds me of the twit who dipped (caustic bath) a very collectable 'sly' red cedar chest of drawers.
Then there's this unique legend within the muso trade about drummers & elec. bass players .... and may I say it's all true speaking from personal experience of course.