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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    syd
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    Not sure if these have already been listed as usable for instruments.
    -burdekin plum (Pleiogynium timorense) -cooktown ironwood (Erythrophleum ehlorostachys) -Black Lancewood (cacia sherlii) -Mulga (Acacia aneura)

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
    Age
    51
    Posts
    235

    Default

    I think this is a very useful thread and would like to contribute towards an end result such as a completed excel spreadsheet along the lines of the one already put up....you could have a sheet for OZ Tonewoods and a sheet for OS Tonewoods......I might play around with the layout of this one a bit and see if I can improve on it...if anyone is keen, I'd be happy to repost it....is this ok with the original author??

    I think it is also important for beginners to understand that different boards of the same species can vary significantly, not only in appearance but particularly in weight. I have a lot of Blackwood 2 piece body blank sets (about 20 sets) and 4 of those sets are SO LIGHT WEIGHT and require no chambering or weight reduction steps....which leaves 16 sets that I would now only use after chambering.....yep, I have built too many heavy guitars

    Hammered I think you referred to Vic Ash being heavy......this is a great case in point...I have some Vic Ash that is miles too heavy for guitars....would make great STEPS though .....but then I also have some awesome LIGHT WEIGHT Vic Ash that is just perfect for solid bodies without chambering.......

    After rummaging through and buying a lot of stock from Matthews Timbers, AFT in Port Melbourne, Bunnings, Bowerbird Recycled timbers in Millgrove and of course the wonderful Timber and Working With Wood show for the past few years, combined with around 15 builds under the belt.....I am finally starting to get a bit of a clue as to what I want and what I should be looking for. I can only imagine the knowledge you have Perry

    In summary, my point is that we can read until we are cross eyed but until you get the hands on experience it is very difficult to acquire the knowledge.....when you have cut, routed, glued, sanded, painted etc a particular species several times from DIFFERENT stock of the same species, you start to understand what works for you and what will meet the requirements of a specific build. I am not saying don't research, the spreadsheet is already on awesome reference......but as soon as you can, start acquiring the timbers you are keen on and make some sawdust

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Leominster
    Posts
    13

    Default Alder

    [quote=petersemple;585222]I have noticed that Warmoth sell solid bodies made of "lacewood" which they say is Australian (Cardwellia Sublimis - Northern Silky Oak) and sounds like Alder. Now, I like the sound of ALder, and have a heap of this Silky Oak in the garage.

    I`m assembling ideas for the use of alder.So far I`ve got Rock Climbing Holds, Electric Guitar Bodies, Clogs (shoes), water pipes, charcoal & fuel for wood burning stoves. What have you made or heard of being made out of Alder?

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Hi All,

    I have just come across this old thread. Just wondering whether a list was compiled, and wondering whether anyone is aware of good suppliers of woods suitable for solid body guitars on the Gold Coast?

    Lee

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    116

    Default

    A spreadsheet/list is a great idea.

    Years ago, I pored through the bible - "Wood in Australia" by Eric Boodle.
    Apart from being a must read book, he goes through most Australian available species and rates them on 10 different criteria - Hardness (S1, S2 etx) , radial and tangential shrinkage , dry weight, and many more . After looking at the species that were already being used , a clear set of criteria appears regularly in tonewood'.
    Then, (silly me), I went through every species in the book and looked for those characteristics and marked the ones I thought fit the bill... .. .
    it was really interesting and very accurate. . . Many of the woods I've heard over the years now being recomended, also have a red mark next to them in my book . .
    so its not magic, just physical attributes that can be researched and determined without much trial and error.
    There are apparently state versions of this book , I have the national one . . Best book I oen.

    Also, the rather lengthy csiro paper by (I think) Andrew Morrow on the Characterisits of tonewood in Australia is worth wading through, if your keen.
    I have a pdf of it here somewhere, if anyone is inetrested.

    I'm not saying this thread or list isnt a great idea . ,. any way of condensing information is good,
    but those are also 2 great resources that deal mostly in properties and characteristics, which appears to be a decent way to determine how well a certain timber will behave to sound waves, .

  7. #36
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,340

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Slapfest View Post
    A spreadsheet/list is a great idea.

    Years ago, I pored through the bible - "Wood in Australia" by Eric Boodle.
    The book is Wood in Australia by Keith R. Bootle isn't it ?

    I have it here in front of me so I must be right, unless there is another by Eric Boodle as well .

    Rob

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    116

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    The book is Wood in Australia by Keith R. Bootle isn't it ?

    I have it here in front of me so I must be right, unless there is another by Eric Boodle as well .

    Rob

    Yes, apologies for the faulty memory .

  9. #38
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,340

    Default

    That's ok , I've got one of them as well .

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