Thread: BluesTone guitars in progress

Stu,
Any chance you could remind us how you do the top-cap join to the neck. I think
you called it like a mortice (se??)
BBM

Originally Posted by bassbuilderman

Stu,
Any chance you could remind us how you do the top-cap join to the neck. I think
you called it like a mortice (se??)
BBM

Howdy BBM.
I remember touching on that subject in the Walnut/ Tassie oak thru neck thread here
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f98/qld-walnut-thru-neck-59480

Look on the second page, post #20 for the pic. with the template.

In essence, it is not that different to a neck mortice and tenon join.
Both the makore build and the other have the fingerboard sitting flush on the top cap,
which means it works aesthetically better to have the mortice and tenon hidden
underneath the fingerboard. (allowing for your offset neck angle also)
It's just a matter of narrowing the neck tenon section where the top cap will sit by a feww mm each side and following suit with the top cap too.
The pictures should hopefully explain things better than my twisting words.

Here's a quick photo album of the build here for those that don't want to wade through
the whole 12 pages of pics.
http://s85.photobucket.com/albums/k6...t=a659209d.pbw

Hi OT,

"It's just a matter of narrowing the neck tenon section where the top cap will sit by a few mm each side and following suit with the top cap too."

Stu, I'm a chemist, so terms like mortice tenon etc are not that familiar to me.

My thoughts were, that you traced the shape of the neck-end onto paper or similar, then transferred this to the mdf to cut the template. If you trace the fretboard outline, you'll end up with a rout that will be the thickness of the bit different. If that makes sense?? Maybe a picture with the router and templates will shed some light.

BBM

I really should do a tutorial on that , then.
Would be better to do one during the whole process, perhaps on the next one.
I'll get back to this a little later and try to explain it more clearly for you.

In the meantime, I'm fretting up the neck. I've Compound radiussed the fretboard 7.25 to 12".

BBM, here the pic.



First thing I do is take off around 2 to 3mm from around the modified neck end, where the cap will sit over. (That template is in the pic)
This will make sure the joint is hidden beneath the fingerboard. The pic. shows where I've cut the 2-3mm off the neck end. (make sure your neck end is at a right angle to your body, as this will make a snug fit with your top cap.)

Next I'll make a template of the neck end using 3mm mdf. When I'm happy I'll get a fit tighter than a fishes pucker, I'll convert it to a 16mm mdf template.

All that's left to do then is use this template on your top cap and route using a straight temp. following bit (6mm shank with a bearing above the bit)

I'll clear this up more if you need it.

Compound radius? That is by no means an easy task. I guess the radius block will sit on the shelf? I've never played a guitar with a compound radius fretboard. Am curious about how it compares in terms of playability.

Look forward to the progress pics,

Cheers,

peter

O.K Peter.

7.25 radius at the nut end and 12" radius at the body end.
Using the radius gauges, I rough in each end of the fingerboard using a no. 5 plane ( first pic.) Make sure she's extra sharp so you're not chipping out around your fret slots.
Once I've got each end radiussed, I'll then plane the rest of the F/board flat using each end as a datum whilst checking with the straightedge 7.25",12" and a 9.5 " gauge close to centre of board.

When that's good, I'll use 240 grit paper stuck to my steel straightedge and work up and down the fingerboard. This gets it dead level. I then skipped to a 12" radius block to go through from 400 to 2000 grit.
Very quick and really flat.

She's also got frets on but not in these pics.

Hey......nice shoes !!!!!!

Is that a mirror finish on a rosewood fretboard?.... Smart @r$e

Another great build thread happening here Stu. That's some pretty outstanding work with the compound radius........I would suggest the REALLY SHARP PLANE point should be underlined when roughing in over fret slots. To me, the mere fact you would consider such a step is testament to your trade skills and experience. Although I am aware of your sharpening skills also being top notch.....slice a hair on your arm sharp eh?

First class building and first class sharing of knowledge.....kudos to you

Mirrored fret board finish, very nice!!!!

Can you use the radius blocks to do a compound as easily as your method Stu?

nice work again oz tradie, i have seen your work on the aggh forum and i gotta say, you turn out some good lookin guitars.
Keep up the xlnt work
G

Thanks Ethereal, Tim and G for your thoughts. Mucho appreciated !!!
I've posted a link for alternate methods to Compound radiusing here to help fuel the debates.
It's a little slow though.......
http://www.anzlf.com/viewtopic.php?t...=asc&highlight=

Looks like you make your own radius gauge too, I made mine out of perspex but didn't think to put them all on one piece. Next time I'll do it that way. The fret board looked good at first but to be honest Stu, painting it silver was a silly mistake.

Jim

May your hands glide effortlessly up and down your fret board

Very impressive plane work Stu.

You have found some great pieces of quilted maple and fiddleback blackwood. That guitar is going to look amazing.

I am going back to the shed and resharpen all my blades now.....