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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Default BluesTone guitars- semihollow neck through telecaster

    This one is a hollow bodied (with centre core) telecaster.

    Qld Maple core , wings and neck through 24 3/4" scale
    scarf jointed and 14 degrees headstock angle from memory....
    Macassar ebony fingerboard 12" radius and medium frets
    Qld walnut bound top and back with front bound f-hole
    SD pickups are hot rodded series sh4b and sh2n
    Les Paul style controls with toggle on upper bout.


    I was asked to build this one by one of our fellow forum members who I'm sure will chime in as I roll out the pics. Onya Michael. Oh and he's also a lefty








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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Some lovely figure in that neck
    Deano



  4. #3
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    Sep 2008
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    sydney
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    Default

    ummm stu.....

    umm... you seem to have.... umm... made a BOO BOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    it back to front!!!!!!!!!!!!!!




    lol looks sexy, the figure in that neck blank is really nice....

    i like your trussrod slot routing setup too...

    good stuff

  5. #4
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  6. #5
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    Default

    wow.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Perth Aus
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    577

    Default

    nice one Stu

    the hollow T with centre core is one of me projects comin up though not neck through like this one

    looking great so far this build is...
    Looking for

    1. fiddleback mulga - 1" thick, 3"wide, 26" long

    PM if you have for sale!

  8. #7
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    Default
















    Now we're just starting to get to the good bits !!!!

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Lilli Pilli
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    523

    Default

    Looking good Stu ... I'll look forward to watching this unfold, it's a build that's on my wish list.

    And can you post a couple more pics of the truss rod in situ ... it might help clarify Floody's questions.

    Cheers

    Dadovfor

  10. #9
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    Default

    I'll see what pics. I have of the truss setup, Floody.

    Anyway onwards and upwards.....................

















  11. #10
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    Sep 2008
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    sydney
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    Default

    question,
    whats going on in the second last picture....


    that f hole is real nice...

  12. #11
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    Sep 2006
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew_B View Post
    question,
    whats going on in the second last picture....

    that f hole is real nice...
    As this is a hollowed out build, I wanted to use Qld walnut mounted on the inside of the back as a screw plate for the control cover and also to add strength around the
    routed out cavity to negate movement and possibility of stress cracking.
    This could have been alot slimmer but as this body had so much weight removed already, I had the option of beefing this up a little bit more so I could make a slightly fatter set of covers for it. Note the Qld walnut backing plate has its grain orientation going opposite of the back.





  13. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
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    78

    Default

    Hot Hot Hot

    And a tele too






    I need a router stat....

  14. #13
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Slashbot_427 View Post
    Hot Hot Hot

    And a tele too


    I need a router stat....
    Bent sides is how I'd build these from now on. Too much waste timber routing out solid billets.

    Here's the drawings I'd prepared for this one. This may make the whole build direction a little clearer. Any questions are welcome .






  15. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Christchuch
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    Default

    Anyway onwards and upwards.....................



    Hi Oz, in this image (with the half-bound f-hole) it looks like you've sealed the walnut with something. Is that the case? And if so, what's that about?

    And what glue do you use for your plastic binding?

    Cheers,

    Shane

  16. #15
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    Sep 2006
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    Default

    Nothing but metholated spirits there, Shane. An indication of colour only, no other reason for it.

    I use this stuff for plastics http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Glues,_a..._adhesive.html

    Normal superglue doesn't penetrate the plastic enough to give a substantial enough bond.
    The weld-on #16 actually melts the plastic and forms it to the timber, to an extent.
    When joining plastic to plastic, I use acetone to melt each piece and then join together.
    This leaves less of a join and melts together a little better in my experience.

    In the background is a tube of #16 weld-on and acetone.



    More........













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