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Thread: A new year build
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20th December 2015, 01:13 PM #1Member
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A new year build
Hi all.
I play in a little old rock duo playing 60s to modern pub rock type of stuff.
We love playing The Angels,The Radiators, AC/DC, Status Quo etc.
My mate and I decided to make our own guitars in the new year so I will have plenty of questions for you knowledgeable folk. The first electric guitar I bought with my own money was an Epiphone Les Paul (back in the day I was mad keen on GnR and Slash) back in 1989. I still have that guitar and love it. The sound, the feel, it just feels like home. My back has slowly gotten to the point it was too heavy to play for a full night so I bought myself a Gretsch Powerjet which I now really enjoy playing after fiddling with the set-up and it really looks the part. Being a semi hollow body it is manageable for a night or two.
My plan is to make my own version of a semi hollow body Les Paul style guitar. I have a few ideas and would appreciate any thoughts you guys and gals may have.
Body shape - Les Paul semi hollow body
Colour - Undecided
Body Timber - Queensland Maple
Neck Timber - Undecided
Fretboard Timber - Undecided
Neck Scale - 24 3/4 inch?
Fretboard radius - 12 inch
Fretboard markers - round mother of pearl inlays (this may change)
Frets - Jumbo
Neck fixing - Undecided but maybe trhough body?
Pickups - 2 x humbuckers, I have one Seymour Duncan Custom Custom for the bridge position and am undecided on the bridge, maybe a Seymour Duncan Pearly Gates
Pickup wiring - 2 x volume, 2 x tone, push/pull volume for series / parallel
Neck and body binding - Undecided
Tuners - Undecided but the Gotoh gear seems nice
Bridge - Fixed
Truss rod - Brand / type undecided
Please let me know if I have missed anything above.
I am in the Newcastle / Maitland area so does anyone around this area supply timber / parts as I would really like to support forum members where possible.
Will I further research guitar parts etc I will make a template for the body and neck shapers to see how it will all come together.
I will post up pictures as I make progress.
.
edit: updated body timber and fretboard radius
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20th December 2015 01:13 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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20th December 2015, 04:39 PM #2
Greg Ward supplies timber and would drive through your area regularly
regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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21st December 2015, 01:03 PM #3Member
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Thanks mate.
I'm now 95% decided on Queensland maple for the body...
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21st December 2015, 01:15 PM #4
What you dont say is the level of skill and equipment you have for the task. If you are light on on those I would seriously consider an aftermarket neck. Fretboard will be done and you will just need to bolt it on. Easy peasy.
If you are well kitted out I would do a laminated neck to balance strength and weight. With a couple of carbon fibre rods and a truss rod you should be able to strip out a fair bit of weight. Think Red Cedar and QLD Maple perhaps. Im personally wouldnt bind it, I would route a round over. It depends on the amount of homage you are paying to that Les Paul shape.
I would also endorse Greg from Boutique Timbers. He cut me some lovely QLD Walnut a few years ago. Perfect for caps )"We must never become callous. When we experience the conflicts ever more deeply we are living in truth. The quiet conscience is an invention of the devil." - Albert Schweizer
My blog. http://theupanddownblog.blogspot.com
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22nd December 2015, 06:38 PM #5Member
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Thanks for the reply.
Whilst I'm not overly experienced in woodworking I am pretty handy and feel confident enough to give it a go.
I did consider buying a neck but I'm in no hurry and don't mind donating some timber to the firewood pile if it doesn't work out.
It's all about the shed time for me.
I do have a Triton work table, router table and enough hand tools to be pretty confident of getting there in the end.
Looking forward to getting some progress pics up soon.
I think over Xmas I might get a start on the body template.
Thanks for the pointers.
...
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25th December 2015, 02:55 AM #6
There are a few critical measurements - like bridge placement, string depth on the nut and fretboard flare and neck angle, scale length, fret slots, etc...
My suggestion - if this is your first build - get all your hardware first (including tuners, electronics and even strings). A lot of the critical measurements are dependant on the hardware you choose.
And besides if drop a pile of cash on purchasing your hardware first - it'll give you incentive to actually complete the build.Mills Custom sawing - Everyone wants my wood
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25th December 2015, 08:53 AM #7Member
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Thanks Jeff. Pretty much the plan of attack. Buy the hardware and specialty tools between us so we've invested some money as incentive to finish also to help with the final layout.
Thanks again.
Have a safe and merry Christmas...
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30th December 2015, 12:42 PM #8Member
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I'm keen to head up to Wauchope for the clearance sale, even if just for a day out.
From their list of timbers I see rosewood for the fretboard, but is there anything else in the list I should try and get for the body or neck?
WAT.jpg
I also have some Bunnings vouchers ( thanks Santa ) so I am considering a sander.
I have a Bosch 18V drill with battery ( which I love ) so I'm tossing up between these two.
Bosch Blue 18V Cordless Orbital Sander | Bunnings Warehouse
Bosch 18V Li-Ion Cordless Multi Sander - Skin Only | Bunnings Warehouse
Would one be better than the other for guitar building? I love the blue Bosch stuff, so that would be my preference, but if the green type is more suited, I'll grab that then.
Thanks in advance, ...
edit: or maybe both?
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1st January 2016, 09:29 PM #9
IMHO the key to a smooth build (acoustic or electric) is a plan....a nice big full scale paper plan on which you can write stuff and take measurements. I'm currently half way through a multiscale OM acoustic and without a plan I wouldn't have a hope of getting the tuner positions on the headstock correct for a straight string pull. Ditto for laying out the asymmetrical falcate bracing.
Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)
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1st January 2016, 10:37 PM #10Member
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Thanks mate. I've found full scale plans for the two designs that I'll choose from, an ES335 or a 59 Les Paul.
I'm really looking forward to it and been doing a lot of research...
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7th January 2016, 10:11 AM #11Member
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Hey all...
From the above list of timbers from Wauchope, which should I be seriously considering?
I'm thinking rosewood for the fretboard, Tasmanian blackwood for the body (a nice dark colour and being a chambered guitar weight should be OK) so that leaves the neck? Same as the body?
Any thoughts or other suggestions appreciated.
Once I get the timbers sorted it will be full steam ahead...
I have attached a sketch of the guitar, although I think that the f holes need some work and I think I'll add a Bigsby
GUITAR.jpg
...
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8th January 2016, 10:26 AM #12Novice
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Qld maple or blackwood will work for the neck.
Make sure its all quatersawn..
Im located in merewether, have been making guitars for several years, if u need any assistance get in contact.
Im happy for u to drop around and i can answer questions.
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8th January 2016, 08:50 PM #13Member
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Thanks mate. Appreciate the feedback and invite. I might take you up on your offer and come and have a chat before I get too far into it and make a blue.
Thanks, .
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8th January 2016, 10:41 PM #14
+1 for Queensland Maple. I use it alot on my acoustics. It's easy to get, easy to work and I love the look of the stuff, especially under french polish.
Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)
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13th January 2016, 08:16 PM #15SENIOR MEMBER
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Your sketch up looks good, just remember the older versions of these guitars were made with plywood, custom ones with spruce tops sound nice and carved maple another thing all together.
if your putting the tailpiece and bridge into the body, then your going to have to run a block inside the body, which is typical for epiphones and so forth, if you want it to sound nice acoustically consider putting a rear tailpiece on and a floating bridge, and then the top can react differently and IMO more acoustically
Steve
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