Thread: My First Build - King V style custom

looks nice, hav u got any sound clips?

i am doing some clips to send to the guy who built the amp in the next couple days - he is intrested in the lorantz speakers - will post back here when i am done...

it is a great sound from almost clean to a fat creamy overdrive
with a pedal in front you are really smokin it

its got two vol chanels you can patch together and one tone control - thats it - the tonal pallette is amazing - you cant get a bad tone

mmm, a nice 15 watter looks tasty. petty I dont have the funds right now though . Would need to sell my Laney hardcore max solid state 120watt (2x12) amp first. I never get the volume past 3.

That is a sweet amp old picker. Bet sounds a million bucks. What timber is the cabinet made out of? Is it dovetail joints?

Peter

pine cab - pine sounds good - its what leo used in the early tweed days
through dovetails for the corners
very strong

Hey maca. Looks like that jig for the scarf joint worked out pretty well for you. Good job. Have you got a pic of the actual jig all put together? How did you keep the headstock and neck together in the jig?

thanks hammered, i'll take a pic tomorow.
i used double sided tape to keep it together, stomped on it for a while, stuck really nicely.

ok so i was just thinking about the inlays, i saw an epoxy with hardener mix at mitre 10 for around 8 bucks or so, will that do? i'll mix some sawdust from the bloodwood with the epoxy glue to use as a filler, if needed yeh?

thanks guys

One of the main qualities you want in an epoxy, is that it sets hard - not rubbery. Sadly most hardware shop epoxies are made to have a degree of flex and resilience in them, so they're not ideal.

I prefer the one sold by Caporn's Pty Ltd in Brookvale, called "Techni-Glue".

Have you got a Dremel with router base, or some other method worked out for cutting inlay shapes?

The other weird thing I do compared to many, is while I rout for inlays before gluing on a fretboard, I don't install them yet. This is because I do 98% of the neck shaping while the fingerboard is dead flat. Releasing tension from the neck stock tends to allow slight movements to occur in the fretboard trueness.

This way, you're pretty well guaranteed that your neck has stabilised (for the short term!?) and it's safe to radius the fretboard, install the inlays, clean them up and fret away...

Having said that, I also deepen the fret slots while radiusing the fretboard - not after - so if there are significant cuts to make, they're factored into inherent movement of the base materials.

Cheers, Adam.


p.s. I heard about the RTA stretching the driving test length by 80% without adding extra staff - some registries are booked out until February...

oh ok thanks addo, i'll call up Caporn's and ask about their christmas trading times.
i have a dremel and router base for the routing.

did they make it even longer? when i went, it went for 40 minutes. i booked mine for 22nd of jan, it was getting booked out really fast for the holiday period.

I think Caporn's might have closed on Friday. Bummer if they did. The other thing to tint your filler with (than sawdust) is fresco powders, sold in little pots at proper art supply shops.

Techni-Glue is actually a very useful glue anyway; you might find it's just the ticket if you have any other issues like routing mishaps.

The test is as you said - about 40-45 minutes, but they used to be 25 until very recently. If you did "shop around" you could probably find an earlier booking outside the Sydney metro; Mittagong or something like that.

Hey maca, how's the guitar coming along? Get much done over the holidays?

Hi guys, didnt get much done over the holidays unfortunately. Been busy with stuff, ordered a safe t planer and it arrived yesterday, planed down the headstock and routed the truss rod slot.



Some thing's wrong with my drill press, its a carbatec bench drill press and the long thing that connects the chuck to the main body keeps falling off, everytime i get it back on it just falls off when i turn the machine on.
Somebody help me!!!

Been there with the drill press dramas.

Stick the spline into the freezer to really cool it down. This will minutely
contract the overall circumference of the spline due to the expansion/contraction
of the steel. (cool contracts, heat expands)
Then re-fit by pressing down onto a block of wood on your drill bench or smack it into place using a block of wood and a mallet (or a really big bloody hammer)

Once it is back to room temp. it'll be tighter than ever before.

Remember first to make sure the drill chuck's teeth are fully retracted.
Believe me when I say you don't want to bend those babies.

Give it a crack, Maca.

cheers, Stu