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  1. #16
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    Jul 2004
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    Hope you dont mind if I make a couple of comments Dayvo,

    Looking at the pic of your fretboard glue up IMO the caul needs to be a tad wider and longer. Did you use a couple of locater pins to stop the fretboard sliding around on the glue?

    Re colouring the lancewood....IMO the natural wood looks just fine.

    Cheers Martin
    Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    North East of Adelaide
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    61
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    121

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    Hey Kiwigeo
    No, I didnt use any locating pins. I could'nt find anything to use, so I had to settle for patience
    More and more people (on this and other forums) are advising me to keep it the natural colour
    Im getting my nitro tomorrow and Ill experiment on the weekend
    dayvo

  4. #18
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    I use a couple of 1.5mm diameter brads with the heads nipped off as locator pins. I get the fretboard all positioned without glue and when Im happy with the setup I knock the brads into holes drilled in the 3rd and 12th fret slots. Just knock 'em in about 5mm. . I then lift off the fretboard leaving the pins protruding from the neck. I then glue up the fretboard dropping same over the locator pins. Drill holes in the clamping caul so it clears the protruding pins. Once the glue is set take of clamps and caul and pull out the pins with a set of nippers. The holes in the fret slot will get covered up by the frets when you stick them in. See attached pics of a recent fretboard glue up on a classical. Fretboard is ebony and the glue is PVA. I put a bit too much glue on the fretboard and I didnt scrape off the glue 10mm in from edge of fretboard as I now do as a matter of course.

    Good luck with the finishing, looking forward to seeing the finished product.

    Cheers Martin
    Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Gold Coast
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    66
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    1,083

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    It look's great, Dayvo. Silky Oak's a strange timber. It lacks depth but has so much grain that it look great. It's one of my favourites and I've never seen a guitar made from it. I have an Epiphone LP that doesn't look half as good as that.


  6. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Melbourne Outer East right next to mount dande
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    73
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    1,859

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    MMMM cant really carry 2x12 cabs any more

    Ohh and if you stain that wood green or whatever
    !$#@%$##%#^&%$^&%*^%&*(^(*&)*()(_
    if anything just a touch of stain in initial coats just to warm it up and only if necesary...
    my2cworth
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    53
    Posts
    293

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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwigeo
    I use a couple of 1.5mm diameter brads with the heads nipped off as locator pins. I get the fretboard all positioned without glue and when Im happy with the setup I knock the brads into holes drilled in the 3rd and 12th fret slots. Just knock 'em in about 5mm. . I then lift off the fretboard leaving the pins protruding from the neck. I then glue up the fretboard dropping same over the locator pins. Drill holes in the clamping caul so it clears the protruding pins. Once the glue is set take of clamps and caul and pull out the pins with a set of nippers. The holes in the fret slot will get covered up by the frets when you stick them in. See attached pics of a recent fretboard glue up on a classical. Fretboard is ebony and the glue is PVA. I put a bit too much glue on the fretboard and I didnt scrape off the glue 10mm in from edge of fretboard as I now do as a matter of course.

    Good luck with the finishing, looking forward to seeing the finished product.

    Cheers Martin

    Damn! and I paid $14 US dollars + shipping for the LMI drill bit and locator pins when I could've just used brad nails shows what good it is to think before spending money.
    Just a question about your pics Martin, where's the truss rod? :confused:

  8. #22
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    Jul 2004
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    Hi Phil,

    No truss rod...the guitar in the pics is a classical. Its my first classical so its a vanilla design based on one of Torres' instruments. Subsequent instruments have two graphite rods running through the neck for reinforcement.

    For steel strings I use the same procedure with the brads but make sure the brads are located clear of the truss rod channel.

    Cheers Martin
    Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    North East of Adelaide
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    61
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    Hey guys
    Im still going with my build and I just thought Id add a few more pics
    Most of my time since the original post has been taken up by doing stuff around the house
    But in that time Ive changed the headstock style and routed the cavities for the knobs and switch
    I still need to sand, stain and lacquer and purchase pickups and knobs
    Hopefully, it will be finished sometime in March
    dayvo

  10. #24
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Broome West Aussie
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    67
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    3,683

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    Dayvo... mate catch this greenie comin your way! Thats looking bloody brilliant!


    note please check your pms


    Cheers
    Shane
    Believe me there IS life beyond marriage!!! Relax breathe and smile learn to laugh again from the heart so it reaches the eyes!!


  11. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    brisbane
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    22

    Default

    i would love to hear the sound of that

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    North East of Adelaide
    Age
    61
    Posts
    121

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    Finally finished my Les Paul
    Specs:
    Brazilian Mahogany body and laminated neck
    Ebony fretboard
    Lacewood caps
    Paua trapezoid inlays
    Bone nut (handmade)
    Black binding on body, neck and head
    Finish, gloss nitrocellulose lacquer
    D'Addario strings
    Hardware, Gold Gotoh tuneomatic bridge and tailpiece, and tuners
    Gold pickup surrounds, toggle switch, strap holders and various screws
    Stewmac jumbo frets
    Pickups: Neck 8.5k, Bridge 14k. They were made by Mick Brierley
    Electronics: I have the Jimmy Page Mod using 4 push-push pots and a 3 way toggle switch to allow for coil, series/parallel and reverse phase switching







  13. #27
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Blue Mountains
    Posts
    2,613

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    That looks like you have done a really nice job there Dayvo. Well done! How does it play?
    "We must never become callous. When we experience the conflicts ever more deeply we are living in truth. The quiet conscience is an invention of the devil." - Albert Schweizer

    My blog. http://theupanddownblog.blogspot.com

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Western Australia
    Age
    46
    Posts
    110

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    If only I liked green.......

    But nice build and I see it is entered for GOTM. I think the biggest compliment to make is that it looks like it came from the Gibson factory. Aside from the colour and the headstock inlay people will assume it is one of them there Gibson's.

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Melbourne, Australia
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    38
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    285

    Default

    What a beaut! Well done

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    Niddrie Melbourne
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    66
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    Hey Dayvo that looks brilliant, I love it. I'm currently working on my first build, and if it turns out half that good I'll be happy. Good stuff mate.
    regards
    Wal
    <style type="text/css">p { margin-bottom: 0.25cm; line- 120%; }</style> Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. Abert_Einstein.


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