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Thread: butt join for solidbody
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9th April 2007, 10:34 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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butt join for solidbody
[background knowledge if you care, skip if you feel like helping but cant be bothered reading it]
ive just started working on my solidbody now that i have a few weeks off from uni, and have been working on the guitar. its going to be a walnut guitar with a rock maple neck. the piece of walnut was not perfect (it was 230 mm wide but not completely usable due to a knot at one end (at the very edge so its going to be in the section missing in the cutaway) and at the other end the piece has its sides filleted off making the full 50mm depth only go for a 130mm strip down the middle at the narrowest part. this was grounds for a nice discount which helped me decide to get the piece as even if i only used the perfect bits then it would be enough, and i could easily work around the imperfections. i had to make the butts at slightly odd angles to the grain due to this.
i was hoping that the circular saw would give somewhat close to perfect cuts after a bit of sanding but that was not going to happen after seeing it. it wasnt that bad, but not perfect for a butt join. after that i decided to go at it with a orbital sander (couldnt be that much worse) and that helped a bit, but obviously i had to be careful. i then got the smart idea to clamp the 2 pieces together side by side then use the orbital sander (will do some proper sanding after its close with a flatter object) which has helped and seems to be quite close.
[/background knowledge if you care, skip if you feel like helping but cant be bothered reading it]
i havent made the clamps yet (will be making them out of threaded rod and wood, having the wood at the top of the bits of wood with a threaded rod on either side. in martin koch's book he says to clamp the wood in positiona dn then check for light. obviously i cant do much other that hold them together to check for light, and it seems that there is light everywhere but where i am holding it. hopefully when i get the clamps on then it all shows no light. what are the chances of this being the case?
i assume pva glue is a good option for this? or is titebond much better? i have heard it suggested many times and i want to know if it is only nessesary for a set neck or if its nesesary for the blank aswell.
i have read through the section in martin koch's book and he doesnt really give a good description on preping a butt joint other than getting someone to put it through a thicknesser. how do you guys do it? obviously there are ways of doing it with hand tools.
i should say that i havent done much in the case of woodwork. dont think ive ever used a chisel, but i will for this guitar. this is my second guitar (second solidbody). the first i bought a single piece of mahogany from gillet in sydney which was good as it helped get the idea. i also bought a paddle head neck with everything included, all i had to do was shape the headstock. this time i am making everything including the truss rod and pickups.
thanks
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9th April 2007 10:34 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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10th April 2007, 12:01 AM #2
Those butt joins need to be perfect
you can get em that way by cutting them with a table saw set up perfect. with an 80 tooth blade for smoothness. You can also do it with a router running along a 2" ally angle thats around 500mm long. you screw this to the wood and slide the router down it making the cut perfectly square an flat. you can also do it with a decent plane by putting both bits in the vice and planing them flat and square. tak em out an flip the bottom of the boards out and should join pretty good. A jointer will do it or a router table as well.
Sandpaper will be ver very difficult speccialy if you used a circular saw.
good luck
btw see melvin hiscoks book he does it with a plane
a plane or a router is cheapest way to go. router is most accurate both will cost around the same. but a router will do a lot more than a planeray c
dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'
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10th April 2007, 11:32 AM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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thanks, i started trying with the router using a straight edge to get it right, might try it again but using a piece of wood to support the other side so it doesnt get the tendancy to dip down, thats where i had the problems. i was surprised how close i got with the sanding, surprised me as i thought it couldnt hurt so i gave it a try. ill get the clamps made up then have a look at the router.
thanks
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11th April 2007, 12:55 AM #4
if you need more idea post back
i watch this group[ pretty closeray c
dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'
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11th April 2007, 01:34 AM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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i feel like an idiot. i was thinking about using the router holding it paralell to the edge i want to get flat (using the edge of the cutter) the obvious way to do it well is to use the bottom of the router. tomorrow ill get some malamine because i know it will have perfect edges and is cheap, and clamp it to either side of the 2 blanks and run the router between the malamine using them as a guide. this will ensure that the cut is perpendicular to the sides of the wood, and that it is perfectly straight, assuming i line up the malamine properly. i was thinking about it the wrong way. oh well, should be no drama now. i feel silly after spending ages with the sanding and then my girlfriends dads plane today. i did make some clamps that will work really well out of some threaded rod and some nuts and blocks of wood. should work a treat.
thanks for the advice, i probbably should have thought a bit harder about what you were saying, i just assumed you were thinking along the same lines as i was.
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11th April 2007, 08:05 AM #6Saw dust maker!
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When I cut the joint for the top and back plate for my archtop, I set the halves (flat side down) with an 8mm gap between them. I ran a straight edge down one of the halves, spaced so the center line of the 10mm router bit (using the router base edge for the guide) was aligned with the center line of the 8mm gap in the two halves.
It took a nice clean 1mm slice from each half in one go, but I figured any variation in the straight edge (It's not a perfect world) would be mirrored by each half. Low places in the left half would correspond to a high spot on the other one.
In the first fitting it was near enough to perfect and all I had to do was some gentle sanding with a sanding stick to get the router marks out.
Hope this gives you some help
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11th April 2007, 10:14 AM #7
Malibu,
Not made clear in your method is making sure you have the two book matched halves of the top facing each other when you stack them in order to achieve the 'evening out" of irregularities you correctly outline.
re sanding sticks.....sometimes Ill run sandpaper over the join but I use 120 grit stuck to side of a builders level with double sided tape. My sanding sticks are a bit flexible to guarantee they'll be perfectly flat.
Cheers MartinWhatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)
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11th April 2007, 10:32 AM #8Saw dust maker!
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12th April 2007, 12:58 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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i got it done and it seems to be glued very nicely. i clamped some malamine to either side of the wood and used it as a guide for the router as malamine has a very flat edge. made a perfect join. i then roughed it up with sandpaper and glued it. left it overnight and ill do a bit of planing today. looks nice in my opinion. you only know its there as there is a discontinuous grain (thats after sanding a little bit to see it)
thanka for the advice, ill put some pics up once i have the body cut and so on. ill probably ask for some advice with the neck as i havent done that before, but that will be later on.
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