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Thread: Cheap acoustic travel guitar
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30th December 2009, 09:16 AM #1
Cheap acoustic travel guitar
As I have fixed my bandsaw and finished some boxes, by slicing up some 6" wide mahogany for their tops and bases. I thought to make a cheap acoustic travel guitar. Mahogany sides and back. Pine top, and mahogany neck. Not sure about fingerboard and bridge. Spent a bit of time on the computer doing a CAD for the body, about 5mins. Cut and laminated neck block and tail block from mahogany yesterday.Cut the sides and back and pine soundboard, edge jointed the back and top today.
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30th December 2009, 09:20 AM #2
Cad
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30th December 2009, 09:27 AM #3
The drawing shows the sides as far too thick. In reality I have thinned down the tail block. I will lose the small holes, as they would show up under the pine soudboard. I shall make up a template and inlay a mahogany ellipse as the soundhole. I have got an idea for the neck from Zachary Guitars.
Zachary Custom guitars and Bass Guitar
His Samurai headstock, appeals in its simplicity. Straight tapers on 3 sides, plus a fingerboard, straight string pull.
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30th December 2009, 10:14 AM #4Retired
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Cheap Acoustic travel guitar
great idea Mike, looking forward to see'ing finished result.
Regards Bob
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30th December 2009, 10:40 AM #5
What sort of "pine" are you using for the top? I assume you're talking spruce. Would be a shame to have that lovely hog on the back and sides and then an inferior wood making up the most important part of the instrument. If youre cutting costs then go for some 3A grade Sitka or Lutz.
Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)
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30th December 2009, 05:43 PM #6
The wood I am using is all stuff I have. The mahogany pieces are all cut from some lengths of nearly 2" thick stair hand rail, from my neighbours house. That is why I have laminated the neck and tail-blocks. Mine are staying on the wall. The pine top is another handrail, it has some nice grain. By no means a tone-wood, but better than using plywood. I would have gone the plywood route, but for the sound-hole inlay, you cannot scrape, sand ply without exposing the layers. I have had a guitar book for a while that displays a range of guitars, some from slightly more unusual timbers than you normally see. I have no firm plans for the bridge, one thought is to go for an arch-top type tailpiece. I want the bridge to possibly have a triangulated look to match the "offset" body line. The neck will be my usual bolt on with 4 recessed T-nuts under the fingerboard.
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30th December 2009, 05:46 PM #7
I had a nice piece of Parana Pine for the top, but that was about 1" too short. It used to be a window sill. This is a cheap guitar. The machine heads are from ebay, at £6 the set, quite nice Schaller enclosed copies. The bone nut and bridge saddle are also ebay purchases. I have some piezo inserts that go under the saddle, but not for this guitar.
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30th December 2009, 06:31 PM #8Retired
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30th December 2009, 08:39 PM #9
This should not cost more than £20. The wood is already paid for as part of another project. I need fretwire, MOP dots and polish, plus a set of strings.
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30th December 2009, 09:28 PM #10
If I kept off forums and stopped taking photos, I would be finished by now. Well I have to do something while the glue dries.
Glueing the neckblock to the sides. Wedges to stop it all slipping.
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30th December 2009, 09:32 PM #11
After laminating 2 pieces together, bandsawing to shape, thinning down on the bandsaw. A bit of shaping on the drill.
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30th December 2009, 09:34 PM #12
Joining the bookmatched window sill pine top.
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30th December 2009, 09:35 PM #13
Glueing the mahogany back. I will use offcuts for kerfing strips and the soundhole inlay.
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30th December 2009, 09:40 PM #14
The job so far.Tailblock will be glued soon.
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30th December 2009, 11:25 PM #15
Glued the sides to the tailblock. Managed to get 3 clamps on. The angled feet came in useful on the Jet Clamps.
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