Thread: Cheap acoustic travel guitar

Cad

The drawing shows the sides as far too thick. In reality I have thinned down the tail block. I will lose the small holes, as they would show up under the pine soudboard. I shall make up a template and inlay a mahogany ellipse as the soundhole. I have got an idea for the neck from Zachary Guitars.
Zachary Custom guitars and Bass Guitar
His Samurai headstock, appeals in its simplicity. Straight tapers on 3 sides, plus a fingerboard, straight string pull.

great idea Mike, looking forward to see'ing finished result.
Regards Bob

What sort of "pine" are you using for the top? I assume you're talking spruce. Would be a shame to have that lovely hog on the back and sides and then an inferior wood making up the most important part of the instrument. If youre cutting costs then go for some 3A grade Sitka or Lutz.

The wood I am using is all stuff I have. The mahogany pieces are all cut from some lengths of nearly 2" thick stair hand rail, from my neighbours house. That is why I have laminated the neck and tail-blocks. Mine are staying on the wall. The pine top is another handrail, it has some nice grain. By no means a tone-wood, but better than using plywood. I would have gone the plywood route, but for the sound-hole inlay, you cannot scrape, sand ply without exposing the layers. I have had a guitar book for a while that displays a range of guitars, some from slightly more unusual timbers than you normally see. I have no firm plans for the bridge, one thought is to go for an arch-top type tailpiece. I want the bridge to possibly have a triangulated look to match the "offset" body line. The neck will be my usual bolt on with 4 recessed T-nuts under the fingerboard.

I had a nice piece of Parana Pine for the top, but that was about 1" too short. It used to be a window sill. This is a cheap guitar. The machine heads are from ebay, at £6 the set, quite nice Schaller enclosed copies. The bone nut and bridge saddle are also ebay purchases. I have some piezo inserts that go under the saddle, but not for this guitar.

Hi Mike, I see this is a cheap made guitar but I see no point in spending a lot of money while learning. I note that you live in Cheshire, I spent School holidays as a young boy in Crewe with grand parents.
Regards
Bob

Originally Posted by Mike Wingate

I had a nice piece of Parana Pine for the top, but that was about 1" too short. It used to be a window sill. This is a cheap guitar. The machine heads are from ebay, at £6 the set, quite nice Schaller enclosed copies. The bone nut and bridge saddle are also ebay purchases. I have some piezo inserts that go under the saddle, but not for this guitar.

This should not cost more than £20. The wood is already paid for as part of another project. I need fretwire, MOP dots and polish, plus a set of strings.

If I kept off forums and stopped taking photos, I would be finished by now. Well I have to do something while the glue dries.
Glueing the neckblock to the sides. Wedges to stop it all slipping.

After laminating 2 pieces together, bandsawing to shape, thinning down on the bandsaw. A bit of shaping on the drill.

Joining the bookmatched window sill pine top.

Glueing the mahogany back. I will use offcuts for kerfing strips and the soundhole inlay.

The job so far.Tailblock will be glued soon.

Glued the sides to the tailblock. Managed to get 3 clamps on. The angled feet came in useful on the Jet Clamps.