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Thread: The cheap fret slot saw set up
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2nd May 2010, 10:04 PM #1
The cheap fret slot saw set up
Floody and Andy have been hanging for pics of this, so here we go.
First an overview.
This is for those that want the ability to slot fretboards quickly, but don't have a dedicated Droppy (SCMS) or a saw bench.
I got this motor and assembly from Bunnings for around $100
This machine matches the Stew-mac fret saw arbor of 5/8"
Basically threw everything away but the motor and cradle. It is marketed as a table saw but really wasn't worth hanging onto the top. Not if accuracy was to be had.
The MDF box was made to size and the sliding top uses Ball bearing
drawer sliders. There is also an index pin mounted in the Jarrah
slide fence for indexing the stew-mac fret slot templates as well.
I've had this for around 12 months and find it to be a real time saver.
Set up is integral to getting accurate slots cut, and once the initial set up is
achieved , it shouldn't move at all. The bearing drawer sliders stop any sideways pivot or slop and create the perfect glide forward and back.
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3rd May 2010, 01:27 AM #2
thanks for that Stu
so thats one of the small ozito or gmc saws? or is it one of the little tile cutting ones?
how do you adjust the blade to make sure it is all square to the sliding top/fence?
so your selling these in flat packs?
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3rd May 2010, 10:12 AM #3
I like it!
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3rd May 2010, 06:10 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
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3rd May 2010, 07:27 PM #5Senior Member
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Thanks Stu,
That is a great set up. Can the depth of cut be adjusted easily?
Cheers,
Peter
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3rd May 2010, 09:46 PM #6
Peter, this is set up at one depth only. To vary the slot depth , I run a
suitably sized substrate between the sliding table and the fretboard.
It would be possible to introduce a riser setup, but I'm more happy
to use a substrate and know it is perfectly tuned always.
Andy, A simple method of getting the blade parrallel with the sliders and fence is to use a mitre square against the fence and then slide the fence forward.
You want to see the square's edge against the saw's blade maintaining the same gap all along the travel distance. If this gap alters, then you've got run-out.
To state the obvious, this doesn't do fanned frets either.
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3rd May 2010, 10:20 PM #7
This is similar to what was used and the rest thrown away.
Marketed as a table saw.
Cost was around $100 from memory at Bunno's
Possibly badged as an ozito, but the only importance was the actual bore/arbor size
to match a Stew-mac blade
Pic. is here..........https://www.woodworkforums.com/f153/s...10/#post709660
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4th May 2010, 01:55 AM #8
hmmm
i guess i will have to build one now...
it seems like the easiest way to go about slotting, other than spending a fair amount on a mitrebox, which involves more physical activity
hmm i wonder if theres any blades like the stew mac ones, that are more... local...
so this will involve,
the saw - 100ish
slotting template - 45
blade - 80
mdf
drawer runners
index pin
fence
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4th May 2010, 08:36 AM #9
The Stewmac blade is well worth it. The whole blade is case hardened, it'll last you a long time, you only need to keep it sharp. The downside to that is that reboring for a different size arbour is not easy . I had to do that for my SCMS and ruined a drill bit.
That setup will save you a lot of time on cutting fret slots, you'll wonder how you ever did without it.
The box looks great Stu, I feel like making myself one too now
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5th May 2010, 05:40 PM #10
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5th May 2010, 07:27 PM #11
Well, you already have a double sided slotting template, you only need to make an index pin for it, unless it's not the scale you need.
If you need a different scale to that one I may be able to arrange another for you, If you like.
Your local saw manufacturer can easily make that saw for you but I've priced them and it's actually cheaper to get it from stewmacs.
regards
Wal<style type="text/css">p { margin-bottom: 0.25cm; line- 120%; }</style> Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. Abert_Einstein.
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6th May 2010, 06:01 PM #12GOLD MEMBER
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6th May 2010, 08:10 PM #13
They aren't that hard to make, actually they are really easy to make.
All you need is a length of 3 mm flat aluminium, it can be 4 or 5 mm but not less than 3 mm about 10 or 15 cm longer than your fret board and between 60 -80 mm wide.
Mark your frets accurately on the flat aluminium scribing them with a razor blade or Stanley knife, then cut notches in the centre of each line down one side, I used a band saw for this and the notches ended up the width of a hacksaw blade.
You could make an index pin from a piece of hacksaw blade .
Aluminium is really easy to work with and if you gotta mark frets out anyway you may as well do it making a template and cut your job down in the future.
Half way down this page is where I posted mine. Post #162
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f98/bo...3/index11.html
regards to all
Wal<style type="text/css">p { margin-bottom: 0.25cm; line- 120%; }</style> Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. Abert_Einstein.
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6th May 2010, 09:15 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
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Ah i forgot about that..I remember reading it now..Ill give that a shot! Might go buy one of those little table saws from bunnings this weekend!
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7th May 2010, 05:55 PM #15
indeed the mad professor made me a slotting template
i never got around to checking its accuracy might do that soon, but i trust wally
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