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31st March 2009, 10:24 PM #1New Member
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- Mar 2009
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- Melbourne
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- 4
Fret Spacing and the position of the bridge
Hello everyone, I am a new member and this is my first post. I build Mountain Dulcimers and I know very little about building guitars.
When we build a dulcimer fretboard we firstly set a nominal bridge position, measure the distance from nut to bridge and use a computer program (like Wfret) to caculate the position of the frets. As we all know, strings increase in tension as they are pressed onto the fretboard resulting in the note sounding sharp. To overcome this we make final adjustments to the position of the bridge (moving it away from the nut) during tuning.
Moving the bridge in a dulcimer is easy but it may not be so easy in a guitar. How do you set fret spacing when you are building a guitar?
Regards to you all, this is great forum.
Peter
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31st March 2009 10:24 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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31st March 2009, 11:05 PM #2Apprentice
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
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- Perth Aus
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- 577
hi peter
for fret spacing, i go to website like this
http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.u...calculator.php
and type in the scale length i want and number of frets ...
but if you were to do it manually i believe there is a formula which you can then use in an excel spreadsheet to arrive at the same values
guitar scale lengths are quite standardised ...i am unsure about dulcimers...so one generally knows the scale length before one goes about calculating the fret spacings
as for the intonation issue you raised, guitar bridges do come in adjustable form espc on electric guitars ...but on acoustics, they generally are not adjustable but installed at an angle to compensate for the intonation issue...the bass strings get a little more length...Looking for
1. fiddleback mulga - 1" thick, 3"wide, 26" long
PM if you have for sale!
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1st April 2009, 06:15 AM #3
Welcome,
we love photos here.....
Re fixed bridges, R3R has summed it nicely. There are couple of tools in acoustic land that help. See http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Nuts...es/i-4462.html I made one out of dowel and some scraps of merbau. For the actual location of the bridge on specific strings David Hurd has the best method I have seen http://www.ukuleles.com/Technology/compensate.html but a lot of plans will include the compensation from the original guitar the plans were drawn from."We must never become callous. When we experience the conflicts ever more deeply we are living in truth. The quiet conscience is an invention of the devil." - Albert Schweizer
My blog. http://theupanddownblog.blogspot.com
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1st April 2009, 11:19 AM #4Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2007
- Location
- Caves Beach, NSW
- Posts
- 277
Pete,
Wfret works great for guitars, I use it to set out all my fretboards,
First you need to chose your scale length, use wfet to print out a scale template. check for any printer scaling problems and adjust scale length input.
Print the template and stick it to the board and prick through with an awl at the fret locations, remove and use marks to cut slots.
For bridge saddle location, I use the stewmac fret calculator which will give you a "compensated" saddle position for High and low E strings
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2nd April 2009, 02:18 PM #5New Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- Location
- Melbourne
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- 4
Fret spacing and the position of the bridge
Thanks for the information guys. The Stewmac gadget looks very useful.
I will slip back to lurking and learning until I have another question.
Regards, Peter
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2nd April 2009, 07:09 PM #6
The Stewmac intonator jig is a useful jig.
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Sp...Intonator.html
When using the jig make sure youve cut nut slots to close to final depth. String height at nut will affect intonation.
As far as marking out fret slots go...using a template introduces another source of error. I measure directly onto fretboard with a ruler and scalpel. I mark fret slot location with the scalpel and then rub chalk into same so their visible while cutting the slots.Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)
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