Thread: fretboard question

Either fill them or bind the fretboard.

You don't want the fret tang to bottom out or the fret will sit to high and need levelling, which is a pita, so deep slots are good. If the fretboard is prepared properly from the get go (nice and level with deep slots) fretting is easy. The last one I did I used some fretting cauls to push the frets in, didn't need any levelling or fret dressing after (except for the ends) and no buzzes when played. It's all in the prep work ,and deep slots are a part of that.

If the slots are a bit deep then dont panic. Like Paul says better that the slot is too deep than too shallow. If the gap at the bottom of the slot showing on the edge of the fretboard bothers you once youre all fretted up then you can get busy with a filler stick of the appropriate colour and fill in the gap. The sticks are available from Stewmac, LMI and I think Lee Valley stock them too.

When I cut my slots I run a shot section of fret with the studs filed off through the slot to check the frets will seat fully when I do the fret job.

thanks for the info chaps
cant find filler stick at lmi or stewmac
but i did find these at lee valley


sounds neat i wonder if you can similar in melbourne?
probably would not work under WB Clear
although i have been toying with a tru-oil job on this one
i thought i could mix some titebond with stained timbermate woodfiller
any other ideas

There the ones. You melt them in with spirit lamp and a pallete knife.

Heres the laquer stick kit from Stewmac: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishin...sh_Repair.html

I usually fill the fret end space with finely filed timber from scraps of the fingerboard itself mixed with Titebond. It gives a nice result once dry. Make sure you mix it fast with the glue before it starts drying and mix it like a thick paste.
That's what I do to fill ANY hole or screw up I might have done during the build. If done well, you'd never know there was a hole there before.

Why would you want to spend money on filler sticks when you already have the timber and glue?
BTW, those stewmac filler sticks are for filling dents and holes in finished surfaces not raw timber.

Originally Posted by Phil Mailloux

BTW, those stewmac filler sticks are for filling dents and holes in finished surfaces not raw timber.

They were originally designed for raw timber. Stewmac just likes to find some new uses for an old product, send out a fancy email, and call it a new development... We used to use the wax sticks for raw and lacquered timber, back in the cabinet making days.

Originally Posted by rhoads56

They were originally designed for raw timber. Stewmac just likes to find some new uses for an old product, send out a fancy email, and call it a new development... We used to use the wax sticks for raw and lacquered timber, back in the cabinet making days.

ahah
a little digging found these

not quite as expensive as the stewmac stuff and by the description its pretty much the same thing ??

they have some pretty interesting stuff - definitely worth a look

they are in mt waverly 20 minutes from here

i kept a fair bit of ebony dust from when i was radiusing the fingerboard, which i will be filling my gaps with (probalby mixed with titebond as phil said) im going to do the neck carve first. just because its a more exciting job.

Originally Posted by rhoads56

They were originally designed for raw timber. Stewmac just likes to find some new uses for an old product, send out a fancy email, and call it a new development... We used to use the wax sticks for raw and lacquered timber, back in the cabinet making days.

We still use clear wax sticks for raw furniture before tinting or clearing, due to the mass amounts of gum pockets in Vic Ash we seem to go through a lot of it. We also have some coloured stuff such as the images above but it never seems to match colour well.

Unfortunately actually making a cabinet out of solid timber only happens when we get a request for a custom unit, everything else is either CNC'd panels and knockdown fittings or veneered panel and timber tops. Getting sick of that plastic veneered ???? too! (paper cuts...sooo many paper cuts)

Anyway, the last few builds i have used rosewood dust and titebond and it looks okay but i prefer bound fretboards, which will be doing on my next few builds.

black_labb are you doing the carve before you are gluing on the fretboard or after?

Originally Posted by rhoads56

They were originally designed for raw timber. Stewmac just likes to find some new uses for an old product, send out a fancy email, and call it a new development... We used to use the wax sticks for raw and lacquered timber, back in the cabinet making days.

I think youre being a bit harsh on Stewmac. Theyve stocked the laquer sticks for quite a few years now. Their catalogue usually has a few "new items" but I've never seen products being advertised as "new developments". A number of their jigs and tools were originally developed by other people but where this is the case appropriate acknowledgements are made. The same comments apply to LMI and Allied Lutherie.

Granted, Stewmac aren't always as cheap as some other places but I use them because the service is second to none, they have a fast freight service and the quality of the products is also second to none.