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  1. #76
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Adelaide Hills
    Age
    66
    Posts
    3,803

    Default

    Body coats are now done on both the steel string and classical. Ive done about 5 sessions of 5 coats of 1.5lb cut shellac with spiriting off sessions in between and sanding back with 1200 grit W and D if necessary. The glaze coats will have to wait until I get back from work in a few weeks time.
    Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)

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    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
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    2010
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  3. #77
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    221

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    martin, they are really scrubbing up a treat...or should i say rubbing..
    nice work

  4. #78
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    63
    Posts
    423

  5. #79
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Louisiana
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kiwigeo View Post
    Some photos of the jig I use for cutting dovetail M and T neck joints on my steel strings. Unfortunately I dont have a body handy handy to show how neck angle is set on the jig.

    Photo 4: The jig. Consists of main frame and a pivoting cradle (with red toggle hold downs) on which the neck blank is clamped.
    Photo 1: Aluminium bar which is attached to neck cradle. Body of guitar is snugged up against the base of the bar and bar is then adjusted until bar height above bridge position is desired distance (set with bolt visible at upper end of bar). I usually aim for a distance of 3-5mm depending on bridge thickness.
    Photo 2: Cradle underneath with neck clamped to same.
    Photo 3: Router with 10 degree dovetail cutter is run around a Stewmac dovetail template. I rough out first with a straight cutter to lessen work done by dovetail cutter.
    Photo 4: Business end of the neck with dovetail cut. This is a reject neck used for demonstration purposes......heel cap normally wouldnt be glued on at this stage and heel wouldn't be shaped.

    The jig is based on an original design by Charles Fox, modified by Woolson of the OLF forum. I normally cut the dovetail so neck sits about 5mm above the soundboard and then finish off trimming of the tenon by hand. One important thing to note is that the front face of the guitar body must be perfectly flat to get a good fit with the neck heel against same.
    Hello,
    Great Jig! Would you happen to have plans for building this jig or know where I could find them. I am a hobby builder, just finished my first guitar but I want to build my kids each a guitar and I could use this jig to help. Thank you so much.
    Darrin

  6. #80
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Adelaide Hills
    Age
    66
    Posts
    3,803

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dpdejohn View Post
    Hello,
    Great Jig! Would you happen to have plans for building this jig or know where I could find them. I am a hobby builder, just finished my first guitar but I want to build my kids each a guitar and I could use this jig to help. Thank you so much.
    Darrin
    Hi Darrin,

    I built this jig using photos in the old LMI catalogue/handbook (no longer in print). When I get a chance Ill measure up the jig and jot up some rough drawings for you.

    Cheers Martin
    Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)

  7. #81
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Louisiana
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Thank you very much. I look forward to being part of this forum.
    Darrin

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