Thread: Hardware and tools

I have to still get a fret board for this project (LP 59 build) and was wondering if anyone knows of a supplier they would recommend in Melbourne. My plan is to cut the fret slots myself.
Thanks Kerry

I've recently completed a Les Paul build and can tell you that you are now on a wild ride and learning curve...... congratulations!
Two blogs I followed are; "The Accidental Luthier" and "Luthier Than Thou". Both well worth a look as they share their experience, knowlege, and errors too.
I get my parts from several scources; StewMac, Aust luthier Supplies, Ace Guitar parts, Guitar Parts NZ, and I also check what's avail on ebay.
I prefer the Japanese fret saw and have done a few boards now, the first being the LP.
I kept the guitar top flat, just on the pickup plane, so didn't need curved rings.
I'd be happy to show photos of my Les Paul but I don't know how to upload to the forum(new member); I'm (slightly) better on the bench than the computer.
Looking forward to seeing pics of yours.

Crafty thanks for your generous post, like you I'm learning and making very slow progress given the time of year and other commitments.
Let me check out the blogs which can only help......
Cheers Kerry

Well progress here has been slow which is okay by me. Now have most of my parts from StewMac.
But I've got to a stage where I'd like your opinion please?

As can be seen from the photos I've managed to join up my two pieces of Fijian Mahogany to give me the width and length needed for the LP 59 body however the Mahogany is too thin by 11mm if I were using the one piece. My plan was to cut it into layers (like a sandwich) effectively giving me three guitar tops. The question then arises as to what timber to use for the back/s and what quality wood does that need to be?

I feel like a dill because I never got a wide enough piece the first time around (hence the biscuit join) then I realised it was not thick enough either. Though the latter screw up may prove to yield up three for the price of one......I hope.

Any advise you can offer up would as always be appreciated - thanks
Kerry

Hi Kerry,

Have you thought of adding a cap? Some sort of decorative burl or other eye candy.

Not clear I fully understand. Are you suggesting leaving the Mahogany as is (not slicing it) and place the cap on top?

Yup, a 10mm slice of whatever dropped on top. There is really cheap spalted maple and the like at the moment. With the dollar the way it is its the best price we will see for a while. eg 2 Spalted MAPLE 0.28" sets _ Nice colors 5347 - eBay (item 190488384238 end time Feb-07-11 09:41:56 PST)

I agree with Sebastian56 on the suggestion of adding a maple top (the '59 LP has this) though I personally favour a slightly thicker maple, say 12 to 15mm. That Canadian ebay supplier is charging C$90 postage so it may help to look around. I've had stuff from 3D Hardwoods in the US; nice range of maple and a lot less on postage.
Consider offsetting the centre joins, ie, keep the maple top join central to the guitar body, but offset the mahogany (if you have enough width to play with) so you don't have one join directly above the other.
Don't forget to rout the wiring channel before gluing maple onto mahogany, you could also do the routing for the selector switch and control cavity at the same time.

I just bought a string spacing ruler from StewMac's and in reading the instructions it mentions two sets of string spacing (Wider & Narrower) and that you must use one or the other.

Can anyone tell this non playing woodworker what the difference is other than the obvious? Why are there two calibrations is it just hand size or is there some deeper scientific reason?

Thanks - Kerry

I'ts really quite simple to use.
You mark the centreline of your outer strings then find the best fit to the marks that gives 5 spaces in between.. Having the inner and outer marks available gives more accurate lineup than just having the outer marks

Thanks Jeffhigh

I know how to use the ruler that was not my question.

I want to know WHY are there two sets of string spacing (Wider & Narrower) calibrations and that you must use one or the other.

What is the difference? Why are there two calibrations is it just hand size or is there some deeper scientific reason?

cheers, Kerry

Where it has bass with an arrow pointing left that goes at the side of the nut where your bass (thicker) strings are. It just gives a little more clearance between the thicker strings than if you just divided by 5 for each string centreline
It's not that here are two sets of string spacing, it's that the spacing gets progressively narrower as you move along the rule.
Just chose the inner or outer marks for the best fit.

Ah that makes sense even to a non player. Thanks for helping me understand .....
Cheers Kerry

I'm getting to a stage where I need to start and think about the contour of the body of my LP 59 build. I've made a number of templates for the routing work and have been reading a about scrapers, though not in the context of Luthier work.

Given the experience and knowledge in this forum I thought I'd ask if anyone has any suggestions what to buy? I see Carba-Tec have Veritas super hard curved scrapers (3 piece sets) and also Irwin Marples are these okay for a learner or should I be looking else where?