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Thread: Help with nitro clear coat
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31st July 2010, 09:03 PM #1New Member
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Help with nitro clear coat
G'day Everyone,
I've had some problems recently spraying clear coat nitro on my project 3 tone sunburst strat.
I've done the black edge, the vintage amber coat, now I've done the clear coat and it's gone haywire. I realise now the humidity has been like 80 - 90% I think it was raining aswell. Big big mistake
Anyway, If anyone can give me some advice on what to do it'd be much appreciated. The solutions I've read only suggest a re-spray in dry, moderate conditions, wait it out or use "blush eraser" thinner, retarder stuff.
i need help
cheers
pics below
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31st July 2010 09:03 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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31st July 2010, 09:50 PM #2New Member
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blooming finish
The cloudy finish to your top coat with luck may only be in the surface, the moisture from the air hopefully has not had time to penitrate further. Try some car paint cutting compound then polish with Brasso.(metal polish) Good Luck Bob Antolik
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1st August 2010, 02:32 AM #3
If you have a heat gun, warm up a small section,not to the point that it bubbles or lifts off,thats the first thing I try with things like that,some times it works well,specially with shellac problems,regards Rob
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1st August 2010, 01:21 PM #4New Member
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Thanks for the replies guys.
I think I might try the heat gun idea first . Also going to see if I can buy laquer blush remover from bunnings.
EDIT: auscab the heat gun method works pretty bloody well!! i got a few tiny bubbles in there but nothing a light sand wont fix . Cheers !!
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1st August 2010, 04:46 PM #5Senior Member
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It was way too cold when you spayed it, youll have to rub it back till the whiteness comes out. Sometimes buffing wont get it out, depends on how deep it is, but if its only the first coats just sand it. Only spray when its warm, when the sun is out the strongest part of the day. Its a bit dodgy with these days temperatures. You can thin it right out so it dries a bit quicker. Good heat lamps is the only other option, a booth helps.
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12th August 2010, 12:21 PM #6New Member
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Glad you fixed it - I get that blush often with my work - it's no problem at all - because your blush was very slight. If you wait until the weather is right- another coat of clear would normally have dissolved that blush. You could even try spraying a thin coat of straight normal thinners over it- a gentle paper thin coat one side at a time- use angled lamps pointing at the job so you can see how the coats are going on (practise on a something else first). Or you can get Retarder thinner from Mirotone or Wattyl(ask their technician about the amount to use,because it depends on the speed of the Retarder) It's pretty dear though, and usually only comes in 4 litre cans. I have occasionally had something end up totally white with blush (late at night and impatient), and had great success with spraying the whole job with straight Retarder thinners- but that is a bit risky if you get a run.
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13th August 2010, 12:03 AM #7
Hey ,I just noticed the edit you added, I was wondering how it went? Glad to have been able to help . I have saved a lot of time with a heat gun, it works well on water damage and when one layer lifts from another , mainly shellac and beeswax on furniture, regards Rob
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21st August 2010, 02:22 AM #8New Member
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g'day auscab cheers for the tip mate yeh it worked like a bloody treat.
finally got all the spraying done now she's just curing. one more week and i can wet sand and polish. then wait another 2-3 weeks for it to cure well then I'm setting here up
here's a few pics of the finished paint job. the black edge isn't the best ( I had to rush it a bit cos I only had a tiny bit of paint left in the can and to buy custom nitro spaycans in aus is expensive and takes time to get.) so I was going as quick as possible to get a decent black edge around it.
it sure isn't perfect and the back is quite rough. though it's my first refin. so I think I've done pretty well. i like things with character anyway!
Oh Go The Coalition!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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