Thread: installing truss rod question

Hmmm...Not too sure what the question is. Might need some pics before anyone can offer advise, which I'm sure there will be pleanty of people willing to do so.

Cheers,

Peter

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...1/100_1733.jpg

here is pic as good as i can take it of what i am talking about

the black square rod is a straight edge and the surface it is resting on has a slight concave bow (the other side is correspondingly slightly convex)

my question is this

Q) would you use this side (the one the black rod is resting on in the pic) as the front/fingerboard part of the neck or would you use the other side (as the front/fingerboard)?

and why?

ahhh
so your bit of wood you plan to use for your neck has warped.....

when you trim it down it could move more... or it could correct itself....

its up to you whether or not you use it....

and it looks like you have your mind set on useing it... so id say use it how it is in the picture

aslong as your fingerboard edge is straight you should be ok

im sure others will join in now, and give their opinions

The first question to be asked is how long have you had the cocobolo for?
and ...............Has it's moisture percentile stabilised yet?

I definitely won't use anything that hasn't finished it's drying and movement. Ever.
Even when you think it is possibly OK, leave it for longer.

Let's just say for arguement's sake it is stabilised and tested on a moisture meter.
Personally I'd re thickness so both sides are flat before anything.
It's always better to start off flat and fresh instead of trying to chase your tail.

I'll pose this question to you and let you figure the rest out......................

When she's strung up and tensioned, which way will the neck want to bow naturally before you
add any truss rod adjustment ? How would you naturally counteract this without a truss rod adjustment? I'd still make sure she's dry then re thickness flat, though.

1. there is no warp and the bow is maximum 1 mm along a 40+" long plank (plank is quartersawn)

2. wood has been kiln dried and certainly looks it ...bought it last sept ...shiiped from USA...now be around 6 mnths

3. from your questions i infer tht you would use the face tht has a back bow (convex bow) to be the fingerboard?! or have i misinferred?! (of course all will be planed flat before fret slot cutting and wht not)

Originally Posted by R3R

1. there is no warp and the bow is maximum 1 mm along a 40+" long plank

2. wood has been kiln dried and certainly looks it ...bought it last sept ...shiiped from USA...now be around 6 mnths

3. from your questions i infer tht you would use the face tht has a back bow (convex bow) to be the fingerboard?! or have i misinferred?!

#1 1mm along 40" billet you'll get right when you radius the fingerboard but you'll also have to compensate with your neck carve. No biggie. Any more than 1 mm and I'd be a bit more cautious as to why and when the movement has occurred.

#2 6 months with an inch thick neck billet is good if it was relatively stabilised before receiving it from the U.S. I'd still prefer the moisture meter to talk to me.
The reason I prefer to re -thickness flat is so I can then accurately determine any movement from there-on in and take appropriate steps to minimise movement.
Basically put it aside until it's stopped kicking about.

#3 Correct an all counts

#4 Post your progress. Hmmm..........cocobolo.

thank you oz tradie

abosrbed all advice ...taking the jump tomorrow...

...hopefully i get some pics up soon and a lil cococaster build thread...might just use the recent homebrew strat body cos it goin to be a strat or tele neck ...25.5" scale ...maybe 21 or 22 frets ...

still sleeping on idea of whether to glue up some ears to make the width for a strat type head stock or leave as is for tele headstock ...plank just a touch too narrow for strat head shape