Thread: Veneer Glue

If you want to be traditional, hot hide glue is the 'historic' stuff to use.

Some people like to use PVA, personally I am an epoxy junkie, so my (very limited) veneering has been with that!

Hi Bob, I havent done veneering myself. . .yet. But I have borrowed some information from the Drum Building Forum that I frequent. I have pasted it below for your information, I hope it helps.

Pete

Glue Application:
You can use either white glue or yellow woodworking glue. It is recommended when you use yellow woodworking glue to thin it with 10% water to allow easier spreading as it can be very thick. With a brush or roller coat the back of the veneer and the substrate with glue. If you are rolling the glue a foam roller applicator works well. In almost all cases you should apply two coats of glue to the substrate because some of the first coat will soak into the surface. Be very careful not to get any glue on the face of the veneer as this will surely be a problem during the finishing process. Once applied, allow the glue to dry to the touch. The yellow glue will probably dry quicker but as a general rule, wait 20 to 30 minutes. An important thing to remember is to apply even, thin coats of glue. Generally speaking, you want to end up with approximately 6 to 8 mils ( 1 mil = 1/1000” ) of glue thickness.

Ironing Veneer to Substrate:
Place the veneer on the substrate and position accordingly. Unlike contact cement which bonds on contact, the veneer can be allowed to make contact with the substrate while positioning. Use a lightweight cotton material between the veneer and the face of the iron. An old bed sheet or cotton t-shirt work well for this purpose. With your iron set on a high heat setting, begin to iron the veneer from the center out using a slow and deliberate pace. The cloth should prevent the hot iron from scorching the face of the veneer. Keep moderate downward pressure on the iron as you move it across the surface. Make sure you have covered every square inch of surface and examine the veneer for any loose spots that may not be bonded. If there are any areas that appear as though they aren’t bonded to the substrate, just go back over them with the iron. Allow this assembly to cool for 2 hours before trimming the veneer to finished size. Allow 24 hours for glue to fully cure before doing any finishing

Thanks master splinter.
And Pete this should help.
Cheers Bob

Originally Posted by woodturner777

Thanks master splinter.
And Pete this should help.
Cheers Bob

Hey woodturner777, I've been doing a few veneers lately too. Ive had really good results with urethane, but it does permiate the veneer as it expands, so your kinda stuck with a urethane finish or some similar base. Concidering the veneer is only .06mm thick, and if your using it on a solid or semi hollow body (not acoustic), it should work great. As im sure you already know, acoustics "preffer" a thin, non invasive finish.
I usually lay it out bookmatched, tape the center tightly so they pull in slightly, paint on the glue, then press with a felt backing between the laminate and press block.
The felt generally allows for any over clamping, not for gaps.

I used a bit of the pre glued stuff before and it wasnt my ideal. The glue wasnt all that impressive, but that may just have been the brand I was using.
Anyway, im sure you will work out what works for you.

Good luck with it man

Bob, My phone will be on today give me a call.

I just called you, YOU OLD BUG==R and your phone is off.
Cheers Young Robert

Originally Posted by builderbob

Bob, My phone will be on today give me a call.

Bob, i'm a cabinet maker in Qld and use a company that specialises in veneer pressing. They do standard and fancy pressing and wrapping.
They use cross linked PVA.
If I recall, the brand is Desford. They supply to the trade only I think. If you want a contact I can get one for you.
I asked the owner if there is any other types of glues he would recommend and he said he would not entertain anything else.




cheers...Wayne

Hi Wayne, Thanks for that, a contact would be good.
Send me private P.M when you get the chance.
Regards, Bob

Originally Posted by Gascat

Bob, i'm a cabinet maker in Qld and use a company that specialises in veneer pressing. They do standard and fancy pressing and wrapping.
They use cross linked PVA.
If I recall, the brand is Desford. They supply to the trade only I think. If you want a contact I can get one for you.
I asked the owner if there is any other types of glues he would recommend and he said he would not entertain anything else.




cheers...Wayne

No wories Bob, I'll speak to our Desford rep on Monday and get a contact for you.


Cheers...Wayne

A Cross linking PVA is great. But is it for in of external use? Will it need to be stiff or lightly flexible? Will it have a load applied to it? I have a 4 different types of glues for certain apps.

Greg

Sorry Bob My phone died I am in the process of setting up another one I'll give you a call tomorrow after the new one has all my contact numbers in it. Cheers Robert