Thread: Newbie - First Build Tele

Originally Posted by Archer

heavy? pffftt!
Try a solid Karri body - you get a dead leg if you play it sitting down!!

Very nice Archer, i had heard that Karri was tonally dead or unsuitable for guitar applications, something along those lines anyway. Good to hear it sounds great!

Which salvage place to did you pull the body timber from?

Adelaide and Rural, Wingfield - it was down the back - Rough sawn 240 x 50 or thereabouts. They haven't got a lot of potential tone wood at the moment, a while back they had some maple floorboards 120 x 30 concealed nail. Would have been useful for necks and maybe sides of acoustics. Usually have some jarrah flooring, oak flooring, etc. and other native hardwoods in various sizes, plus some WRC sometimes. I like the idea of salvaged stuff as its nice and seasoned, but might stick to stuff stored under cover.

I reckon Karri has some potential as a drop top or carve top, but I wouldn't advise anyone making a whole body out of it if you plan to gig with it, you need a good quality strap if you do! Unless I can compare it to something identicle I cant really say how good it is as a guitar tonewood, but it can be used!

One day I'm going to machine some of the left overs and test its bending for an acoustic. Not expecting anything but you never know unless you try.

Originally Posted by Archer

Adelaide and Rural, Wingfield - it was down the back - Rough sawn 240 x 50 or thereabouts. They haven't got a lot of potential tone wood at the moment, a while back they had some maple floorboards 120 x 30 concealed nail. Would have been useful for necks and maybe sides of acoustics. Usually have some jarrah flooring, oak flooring, etc. and other native hardwoods in various sizes, plus some WRC sometimes. I like the idea of salvaged stuff as its nice and seasoned, but might stick to stuff stored under cover.

I reckon Karri has some potential as a drop top or carve top, but I wouldn't advise anyone making a whole body out of it if you plan to gig with it, you need a good quality strap if you do! Unless I can compare it to something identicle I cant really say how good it is as a guitar tonewood, but it can be used!

One day I'm going to machine some of the left overs and test its bending for an acoustic. Not expecting anything but you never know unless you try.

Thanks, bit far from me but i suspect i will be up there soon looking for a new car in the abundance of dealerships up that way.

I can see the weight issue being a problem, similar to jarrah i guess, nothing a little chambering here and there couldn't help though.

They use jarrah for back an sides (the Americans pay a large amount for it too) so i can't see why karri wouldn't work, being so similar and all.

Archer, CA Red is red tint over metallic silver or gold. Do you in fact mean translucent red stain? I've got good, simple recipes for both.

Regards, Adam.

Originally Posted by addo

Archer, CA Red is red tint over metallic silver or gold. Do you in fact mean translucent red stain? I've got good, simple recipes for both.

Regards, Adam.

ummm yeah, translucent. the darkish red lacquer finish that shows a little grain still.
thanks.

Originally Posted by addo

Archer, CA Red is red tint over metallic silver or gold. Do you in fact mean translucent red stain? I've got good, simple recipes for both.

Regards, Adam.

Ooh recipes.
How much do we need to grovel to get an insight into your tried and tested formulas ?


cheers, Stu

recipes are easy
long as you carefully record the results of your blends
and put your numbered test swatches on a neutral coloured board
triaxial blending gives a huge amount of results very quickly
they key is to be organised and methodical

then you can try your best blends over different base colours

Looks like OP nailed the methodical style. I take more of the "Louis Armstrong" approach More seriously, try to keep some notes of what you did. Lacquer fumes have an obfuscating effect...

Abbreviations are: PT = Prooftint, FRS = Fade Resisting Spray Stain. Experiment with dilution strength beforehand! I use Dulon AAA Normal thinners in all my lacquers and stains because it's commonly available, good quality and you know it isn't ten years old stock. About $43/4 litres.

CA Red: Silver or gold Lucite basecoat over white tinted Hifill, then Red PT doctored with Rosewood PT if needed.
CA Blue: Silver Lucite basecoat with Blue FRS dilution.
CA Green: As Blue with either FRS or PT dilution.

Fender™ sunburst edge brown, classic era: Walnut FRS 20%, black lacquer 20%, brown lacquer 60%.

Fender™ sunburst red, classic era: Try Red PT, also Rosewood PT. Maple PT may help give the "unburst" faded look. Depends what year you're going after.

Fender™ sunburst yellow, early: Bleach with ammonia/peroxide, dry a week, then strongish yellow water stain of choice. Seal with thin coats of poly sealer (like Adeze). If need be, "beef up" after sealing with solution of Gold Teak PT, thinners and white lacquer (tiniest hint, for slight opacity).

Fender™ sunburst yellow, later: Gold Teak PT, optional white lacquer to opaque a little; hint of Teak Brown if you want the '70s look.

Gibson™ sunburst edge brown, classic era: Teak Brown PT doctored with a hint of the Fender mix if opacity is lacking.

Gibson™ sunburst yellow, classic era: Try Yellow FRS doctored with Teak Brown PT. No white. Keep spraying (or adding brown) until it gets dark enough for you.

Gibson™ Red (early Les Paul and SG): Weak Red PT direct to wood, then grainfill, then Red PT in lacquer.

Gibson™ Red, later: Red and Rosewood PT blended to personal taste, no direct to wood application (applied over sealed and sanded substrate).

Gibson™ "Unburst" brown: It varies! Mix Orange FRS with Blue to get a dry brown. Add Yellow FRS for a greenish hint, but remember you're already spraying it over yellow....

This should be a start...

Regards, Adam.

That's great adam! Thanks for sharing those!!
I think I'll try the later gibson red and see how that goes on the jazzmaster!
thanks
Archer