Thread: Qld Walnut Thru-neck

Looks awesome stu!!.
Any reasons why you put two dots on the 13th frett?

just kiddin'

He he !!!!

I actually double-checked after reading that.

The neck is 21mm at the 1st fret and 25mm at the 15th
for those who love their factual grabs of info

AND THE MARKERS ARE CORRECT, cheers Deano (smartarse)

The good news is that everyone on this forum whose close by gets to give it a critique.
Everyone but me I guess. Building right handed guitars and being left handed does have it's drawbacks!!!! !!!!!!!!

Stu

Stu, that is one awesome nice guitar. You've really outdone yourself here. I mean, the raging fires build was damn nice, but this one is just a notch above IMO. I'm a sucker for the walnut as it is, and then the thru-neck just tops it off. Can't wait to see it fitted out and strung up now. You are going with black hardware right (think you had a pic a few pages back with black tuners on it).

How does it go for weight with the walnut body? And one more question, are he blonde strips (maple?) in the neck just standard veneer width 0.6mm? They look a little wider especially in the first pic you've posted above.

Originally Posted by oz tradie

The good news is that everyone on this forum whose close by gets to give it a critique.
Everyone but me I guess. Building right handed guitars and being left handed does have it's drawbacks!!!! !!!!!!!!

How do you go with power tools and that one considering they are usually designed for use by right handers (like circular saw etc)?

Cheers,
DJ

Originally Posted by Hammered

Stu, that is one awesome nice guitar. You've really outdone yourself here. I mean, the raging fires build was damn nice, but this one is just a notch above IMO. I'm a sucker for the walnut as it is, and then the thru-neck just tops it off. Can't wait to see it fitted out and strung up now. You are going with black hardware right (think you had a pic a few pages back with black tuners on it).
How does it go for weight with the walnut body? And one more question, are he blonde strips (maple?) in the neck just standard veneer width 0.6mm? They look a little wider especially in the first pic you've posted above.
How do you go with power tools and that one considering they are usually designed for use by right handers (like circular saw etc)?

Cheers,
DJ

Thanks for the positive feedback all.
Hammered, the hardware will be black. No doubt about that !!!!

The maple accent veneers on the body through to the neck are 1mm thick and purchased from ALS. Same sizes with the fretboard as well.
The only .5mm veneers used were on the headplate.

Weightwise, I haven't formally weighed it but this seems about as lightweight as a strat. For a Qld walnut body/neck combo and Tas oak capped geet, it's very lightweight. And that's all due to the chambering.
I'm used to heavier guitars so it's a breath of fresh air.

As far as on the worksite and tools ? You're right about circ. saws made for right handers and I'm lucky enough to be ambidextrous with tools.

( You'd be surprised how many chippy's can only use a hammer right handed.....it's rather funny)
My only downfall is with guitar playing and writing. Left handed for those.
I can bang out a few chords right handed but it's not pretty.

cheers, Stu

Ready for refinishing. Time to pull out the hvlp.

Anyway all hardware is drilled for.

Recessed tom bushings and also recessed volume and tone knobs.
This keeps the knobs 8mm lower in to the body and less clunky.
Same with the toggle.

The rear ferrules are typical tele style , although they are recessed flush with the body.

The ferrules on the back worked out as good as I could have hoped for in relation to the thru neck veneers. I'd initially measured out the neck veneer spacing so the ferrules would space either side of the them, showing a continuous accent line unbroken by ferrules. Bingo !!!!!



cheers, Stu

Lookin' good Stu.
The ferrules accuracy is great, and and the curved shape matches the body well.
Is that a Nitro finish? If so, what percent gloss is it?

Keep it up!
Deano

Thanks Deano.
I ummed and ahhed about the ferrule shape. Finally came back to my original choice.
Those pics are pre-nitro. BTW

I'm using Wattyl stylwood precat nitro 95% gloss again.
The same gear I sprayed your axe with. In fact, from the same tin !!!!!!!

3 thinned coats on this arvo and shes a lookin' the goods


cheers, Stu

Looking very nice!!

2 questions about the ferrules:
- where do you buy yours?
- do you take them back out before spraying or leave them in and clean them up after finishing?

Looking forward to the next progress pics!!!!

Cheers
Archer

Thanks Archer.

I get my ferrules from Stewmac. I usually buy in bulk.

I take the ferrules out prior to spraying and then re-size the holes afterwards to clear out the excess nitro.
Then they'll go back in after the final buff is done.
Any other way becomes messy and problematic

cheers, Stu

nicely done, looking forward to seeing the finish on it.

This guitar just keeps getting better Stu.

Can I ask, what is that TOM you have on it there? and also, what was your method for locating it. I'm a little unsure how one goes about finding the best spot to put the bridge considering the saddles can be moved either direction (generally most bridges anyway) so I'm assuming you would split the total distance they can move, and make the centerline of the saddles travel the start of the scale lenth (or end really considering the nut is refered to as the zero fret)

Anyway, where are these pics post spray? Throw some up if you get the chance. Looking forward to it.

Originally Posted by Hammered

This guitar just keeps getting better Stu.

Can I ask, what is that TOM you have on it there? and also, what was your method for locating it. I'm a little unsure how one goes about finding the best spot to put the bridge considering the saddles can be moved either direction (generally most bridges anyway) so I'm assuming you would split the total distance they can move, and make the centerline of the saddles travel the start of the scale lenth (or end really considering the nut is refered to as the zero fret)

Anyway, where are these pics post spray? Throw some up if you get the chance. Looking forward to it.

you want the strings a bit firther back from the scale length, as you need to compensate for the stretching of the string as you push it onto the fretboard. the idea with a tunomatic is to set them as far forward as possible, and then put the high e saddle on the scale length, and the low e saddle 3mm back. those are the furthest forward you could have them, and you then adjust the compensation back to get it right. this ensures that you play in tune the whole way up the neck. thicker strings and higher action will need more compensation (saddles further back) than low action and small gauged strings.

hi stu - coming along nice
btw do you have a locating routine for your ferrule placement ?

i have a system that works but its a real fiddle