Thread: Qld Walnut Thru-neck

Ta, Ray. At least you'll get to play this one properly . (Righty and all)

I've done ferrule configs differently every time, although my main method is the same.

I'll figure out the shape or arc I want my ferrules to produce, and also my backset away from the bridge and pencil it onto the body. I like to have at least .5 to 1mm clearance above the back wall off the bridge. No theory why, it's just what I prefer to see.

Firstly, I get the tune-o-matic bridge placement and bushings drilled and recessed.
The T.O.M gets popped in place, then I'll use 15 kg strain fishing wire to simulate the string path from the tuners, over the nut and over the T.O.M. , one on each outer side saddle. I'll lift up the string(fishing line) until it just touches the notch in the saddle with the continuing line running over and past the the tom.
I'll then square down a mark from the fishing line onto the body where I've premarked my backset and arc. This gets done for both outer saddles.
Once this is achieved, I'll measure the distance between each outer line and then divide by 5 to get my spacings for each intermediate ferrule. I'll mark those in on my predrawn arc or shape on the body that I want the ferrules to follow.
I'll then use a 4mm drill bit to run my string clearance holes from front to back first.
Usually drilling the outers first , then checking on how straight they drill through.
If good I'll continue with the inner 4 holes.
Then I'll drill for my back ferrule rebates and tweak as required.
(Drilling through the body doesn't guarantee the drill hasn't skewed in the process,
so I tweak any slight wayward movement in the drill with the 8mm rebate hole.
( If I'm recessing the ferrules flush with the body, I'll run the 10mm brad bit in before the 8mm one.)

Hmm....I guess now I read it out loud it sounds pretty confusing and longwinded.
Oh well, it works for me and gets the spacing I'm after.

Hammered,
This TOM bridge in the pic is from Stewmac and Guitar fetish and has rollers instead of the conventional saddles. The post spacing is identical to traditional large bushing TOM models, so I'm going to use one or the other.
They're a great looking bridge and I'm keen to see how they stack up with the rollers instead of the usual. 14 " radius to suit my 14" radiussed fretboard. If I went back to the traditional style, I'd notch out the saddles slightly to effect a 14" radius saddle arc.

Ta Ethereal, I keep promising to bring this one up on Fridays and not.
I'll cut the crap and bring it up when it's done and dusted. I still reckon black for the hardware, although...............
Possible subtle burst on the top too.........we'll see
Nitro on Qld walnut looks scrum-diddly-umcious BTW



cheers, Stu

umm i drill the top holes 1/2"
the flip the body and drill from rear using a locating pin
i had som really wonky ones early so thasts why i do itthat way - pretty accurate

1/2" ????? I'm guessing you mean deep ?

That's why I drill the outers first. That's my locators

Got a picture of your locating pin method. Sounds alot better.

yeah 1/2" deep
usually drill through a bridge to get em right but you can mark em out just as easily -mount a 1/8" x 1/2" bit of steel rod vertical in a mdf base and line it up with your drill bit, flip the body and locate the steel rod in your pilot holes [a little tricky] then drill away with your ferrule size drill - you can poke your 1/8" all the way through later and then do yer contersink if you want

Originally Posted by black_labb

you want the strings a bit firther back from the scale length, as you need to compensate for the stretching of the string as you push it onto the fretboard. the idea with a tunomatic is to set them as far forward as possible, and then put the high e saddle on the scale length, and the low e saddle 3mm back. those are the furthest forward you could have them, and you then adjust the compensation back to get it right. this ensures that you play in tune the whole way up the neck. thicker strings and higher action will need more compensation (saddles further back) than low action and small gauged strings.

I had assumed as much, but am not exactly familiar on how much leway is in the saddles to intonate the guitar (how far forward or back you can wind the saddles). It would suck to drill and install the bridge, only to find you need to adjust one string half a mm more than it will allow.


That TOM does look good Stu. Let us know your opinion of the rollers over traditional saddles.

I think black hardware will look great on this guitar. It will match nicely with the darker colourings of the walnut. Still not a fan of the 510's though.

The 510 tuners are my faves at the moment.
I've got 3 of the 510 bridges I want to try out as well .

Thanks for your take on things , Ray.
I'll try that out on the next tele. Informative stuff that.

(on a side note)
With a TOM bridge set up and ferrules for a 'string thru body' application, it's important to make sure there is a continuation of the tapered string path after the tom.
If this isn't adhered to, there will not only be downwards pressure by the string to the saddle, but also sideways pressure, which causes problems with the string wanting to jump out of the notch in the saddle.
Especially with hard-hitting strumming or big bends.

cheers, Stu

That is going to be an ace guitar... Can't say I've ever seen one built like that! I recon you could take an eye out with that guitar! Pushing the boundaries of tradition... thats what like to see. I think there's a word for it.... innovation I believe.

Hope to see more of it soon,

Peter

Thanks for that , Peter.
It's always nice to get another persons take on things.
No doubt this design won't be to everyone's liking, but that's life I guess.

My main aim with this build was to try a few different things and continue
to try out and showcase some other aussie timbers. I am looking forward to getting this one playable and gauge the qualities of the Qld walnut in a build context.

Nitro really brings the Qld walnut to life. Amazing.!!!!
Nice ribbon figuring up the neck too.
The walnut is also less porous than I expected. I didn't grainfill at all,
and I'm glad I hadn't now. Thinned down nitro is all it needed.

Looking forward to running a few more coats over this one tomorrow.
In the mean time, it's keeping me and the missus company in the house.


cheers, Stu

3 more coats on today. 6 in total. looking the goods
I've got an adequate build up to start working on the oh so gentle burst on the edges to reveal a faux binding.

cheers, Stu

Stu,
Hows that mini spray gun holding up? Doing the job?.
Deano

I gave it a burl and it should do the job.
I'll buy another with better quality in the not too distant future, although not bad for 20 bucks at Bunno's.
And the jumping castle ????? he he he
You asked for these, Deano.

Taken an hour ago and 4 hours after the last coat went on.



cheers, Stu

looking good, the contrast in the timber looks great with it clearcoated.

Oooh, shiny. Looking good Stu!

How do you suspend the guitar for spraying? Using a tuner hole or something?

The walnut looks stunning! I am very keen to see how the burst comes into the picture. Any thoughts on pickups for this build?