Thread: Quarter sawn?

Well a pedant would say that the best way to get the quarter is to split the timber into wedges. I however purchase what you have shown as its what is usually available.

Why are you asking, are you settling a bet?

Originally Posted by Grain Man

Take a look at the drawing on the right.

Those two boards that are cut side to side all the way across the log...

Wouldn't those be quarter sawn?

So are 8 of the others in that pic.

Originally Posted by Grain Man

Take a look at the drawing on the right.

Those two boards that are cut side to side all the way across the log...

Wouldn't those be quarter sawn?

The on on the right is all 1/4 sawn, that's why 1/4 sawn is expensive because of the wasted wood note how much timber is on;y in small widths. As opposed to the wide boards that are reclaimed from the drawing on the left, which appear to be a mix of back sawn and cathedral cut.


Cheers


Steve

Originally Posted by burraboy

So are 8 of the others in that pic.

Ah, but they're not the full width of the log though.

And I need a very wide board that is quarter sawn.

Originally Posted by Sebastiaan56

Well a pedant would say that the best way to get the quarter is to split the timber into wedges. I however purchase what you have shown as its what is usually available.

Why are you asking, are you settling a bet?

No, I just need a wide quarter sawn board.

The reason i'm not so sure is that the space right in the middle of the log could be a wide dead zone or something for all I know.
(newb here)

Originally Posted by Grain Man

Ah, but they're not the full width of the log though.

And I need a very wide board that is quarter sawn.

In that case. you probably need to start with a very big tree...

Originally Posted by Avery

In that case. you probably need to start with a very big tree...

are you saying the two full width boards in drawing B are not considered quarter sawn?

There are often problems at the middle of the log. You might be better off joining two to avoid the problems.

You will find that the heart wood should be boxed out and not used as it will degrade, split etc. The old growth mills with the larger logs cut the heart wood into garden sleepers.

Exactly what is the wood to be used for?

From up here, none of the boards cut from the logs in the diagrams are "quarter sawn" at all. Some are tangential/slab cut and some are radial cut. The fiber and growth ring orientation exposes these boards to the worst possible risks of warping. However, if there's any outstanding pattern to the wood, that's what you see.

True "quarter-sawn" boards incorporate some of the mechanical characteristics of the radial face and the tangential face. The direct result is that there is somewhat better strength properties and much less movement as cupping, twisting and bowing.

First, quarter the log. The freshly exposed wood faces are the radial faces.
Second, run each 1/4 log through the gang saw (adjustable, multipe band saw) with any radial face on the carriage. The entire 1/4 log is cut into boards in a single pass. The resulting growth rings appear to run in short curves when viewed from the transverse/end of each piece.

I have a friend who runs a real blade mill, he takes the logs, eg western red cedar, which are too large to go through the gang saws in other mills. He will custom cut some tangentail and radial slab for wood carving but I have to wait until he has a market for the rest of the log, some 2+m in diameter.

Bottom line is that if the end grain is perpendicular to the face, then you can say it is quarter sawn.

In common parlance - we call Vertical grain lumber "Quartersawn"....
Properly, though - "Quartersawing" refers to the process that Mr. Robson Valley refers to.... You cut the tree into Quarters - and then you stand the quarter logs pointy-end up, and resaw boards off the cant...

When buying "Quartersawn" lumber from the miller or from a hardwood supplier - you get a mixture of anything from 0 degrees perfectly vertical to 45 degrees off vertical grain.... In picture "B" - everything but the through-and-through slabs would be sold as "Quartersawn"..

Since your center-cut slab includes the heart - it is probably not properly called "Quartersawn"... but you likely wouldn't get too much argument... Unfortunately - all but the most stable timbers will split right down the heart when drying... so you are better off ripping the board down the center of the heart so they don't split when you don't want them to....

When buying from fellows who flat saw whole logs into slabs - I like to ask for "The Center Slab (s)" - and I get the piece or 2 that contains the most vertical grain timber....

Thanks

the main reason for the choosing , slab cut is the grain view , 1/4 sawn has straight "plain " grain , while slab sawn shows the curved beauty of the timber

1/4 sawn is more stable in that it will only expand and shrink to humidity , where the better looking slab sawn will have its grain straighten when dyed , but will pull back with humidity so will change shape

the best looking timber has figuring where the timber was stressed by wind while growing , at ground level ( root / trunk ) or fork is the best place for figured timber , ( most stressed )

my dodgy JPG below shows what to expect from cut shape to dry shape , but what is dry ? timber will always suck in humidity and if you try to stop it , it will crack and let it in any way , time is on the timbers side ,as the timbers moisture changes so will its shape , the best way to get a stable timber is to start with a stable timber ( 1/4 sawn )