Thread: I want to make a Rickenbaker type base.

Rickenbacker had a nifty double truss rod in some of their guitars...it allowed neck adjustment for string pull up AND for sideways movement of the neck as well...brilliant.

I still dont quite understand how Baron Rickenbacker went from being a dead WWI ace to running a guitar building business.

Originally Posted by kiwigeo

I still dont quite understand how Baron Rickenbacker went from being a dead WWI ace to running a guitar building business.

kiwigeo,

It wasnt Baron, it was Eddie. He was an American Baseball star, that became a WW1 Fighter ace. He later made cars under his own name as well

Man I am a font of useless carp arent I

Originally Posted by kiwigeo

Rickenbacker had a nifty double truss rod in some of their guitars...it allowed neck adjustment for string pull up AND for sideways movement of the neck as well...brilliant.

As far as I remember the truss rods were made of flat steel too, (something like two lenths of 2mm by 10mm flats) another nice design feature, so they only had to route about 4mm deep into the neck

Originally Posted by kiwigeo

Rickenbacker had a nifty double truss rod in some of their guitars...it allowed neck adjustment for string pull up AND for sideways movement of the neck as well...brilliant.

They used tht system in some [or all] 12 strings
the problem with it was there was so much wood hogged out of the neck to headstock area to give good access to the 2 truss rod adjusterrs, it was weak and they would bust right through there

better would be carbon fibre stiffening bars and a hotrod truss rod

I agree...CF rods are just dandy for neck reinforcement. I run two of them up my steel string necks...one either side of the two way truss rod.

Originally Posted by kiwigeo

I agree...CF rods are just dandy for neck reinforcement. I run two of them up my steel string necks...one either side of the two way truss rod.

Do yiou get em off stewmac?

Or can you buy CF bars somewhere in Melbourne??

The last lot I got were from LMI but Stewmac have them too.

So to change the train of thought, from all these guys or gals playing with their knobbs, I trawled the gnette and came up with a list of specs and working pictures and such like from assorted sources... and compiled a "working file" that has sufficient information to make an exact, but much louder, copy of the same base guitar.

I had to compress files 2 - 4 down to 12%, to fit them under the 100K limit, so they are a little bit "losing in detail" but it's for educational purposes only...

I threw in a piccy of a hot chick, just cause she is hot....

Swoon etc...

I think I shall have her as my next girlfriend....

Now off to buy the timbre...... for my super extra LOUD bass... (with Volume Knobbe going to 50)

Theres some fairly intricate carving on the body of that bass.....are you going to have a crack at copying same?

Originally Posted by kiwigeo

Theres some fairly intricate carving on the body of that bass.....are you going to have a crack at copying same?

Yep..... I will copy it exactly.

The week after I am going to date the broad, and her sister.

Hmmmm and the week after this, I'll get a 500W amp to go with it too.

Naaaa make that a 1000W amp.....

Yeahhhh - that rocks...

The bass body is made out of walnut with an oil finish. The neck was maple with a rosewood fingerboard. The design on the body was carved by hand.

Soooooooo the materials, parts, wiring, dimensions and everyfink, is all there to do it.

Now for a first time perfect lesson in Karven.

Give me 3 ~ 5 months and I will have it built, running and finished.

2shane.

Eden 410XST is a 1000W Bass Amp...

Tho I will check up on the effiency of the speakers, with the rating of db/W/m.


SPL (Sound Pressure Level) [[ this is a nice word]]

http://sound.westhost.com/articles/pwr-vs-eff.htm

Consider this ... Assume we have a loudspeaker rated at 90dB/W/m (a softspeaker?) versus another rated at a much more respectable 100dB/W/m. With one Watt of electrical energy applied, one will have 10 times (10dB) the SPL of the other. While this is insignificant if we are happy with 90dB SPL, if we try to obtain 110dB SPL at one metre, the efficient driver will do this with only 10W, while the inefficient driver needs 100W. Another 10dB makes that 100W vs. 1000W - anyone want to guess which speaker will last longer before the voicecoil melts?

Hmmm so to get a super powerful amp, with super efficient speakers..

1000W amp with head bursting volume..

Excellent.

So do you have any problems?