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Thread: Which way to scarf?
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27th January 2010, 08:35 PM #1
Which way to scarf?
Just wondering if there is a right or wrong way to do a scarf joint.
I have made a couple of necks using "method A" in the attached jpeg.
I have gone this way because I feel the fingerboard "sandwiches" the headstock with the neck and this makes for a safer joint.
But....I have noticed quite a bit across forums and searches on the net that "method B" seems popular.
Am I ok doing it way I have?...and does it really matter?
cheers...WayneA man who asks is a fool for five minutes. A man who never asks is a fool for life. - Chinese Proverb
www.wayneranson.com
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27th January 2010, 09:57 PM #2Apprentice
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i am about to do method B for the first time
cos the neck will not have a separate fingerboard but the 3-a-side tuner set i got sort of demands a tilted back headstock
i have done method A before and tht worked well
i don't see why method B would not be as good as method A given tht glue used is stronger than woodLooking for
1. fiddleback mulga - 1" thick, 3"wide, 26" long
PM if you have for sale!
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28th January 2010, 06:35 AM #3
I use B. The reason is that the force on the head gets transferred down the neck where I have the reinforcement rather then through the fingerboard. I use a 15 degree scarf. I tend to make mostly 8 string instruments like Mandolins and Mandolas.
Does it really matter? depends on your timber and the thickness of the fretboard I suppose...."We must never become callous. When we experience the conflicts ever more deeply we are living in truth. The quiet conscience is an invention of the devil." - Albert Schweizer
My blog. http://theupanddownblog.blogspot.com
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28th January 2010, 07:19 AM #4
i use A, 15 degree scarf.
looks better to me,
but as said below by sebastiaan, depends on your stock... and the look your going for...
B would need a faceplate to cover the joint
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28th January 2010, 08:41 AM #5Senior Member
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I used the A method with a twist, I`ve incorporated a sliding wedge dovetail in my joints, that way I`m not relying on glue alone to hold it together.Attachment 128070
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28th January 2010, 09:18 AM #6
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28th January 2010, 09:21 AM #7
Thanks for you input guys.
I think I will stick with "A" as I just like the look and as Andy says I would have to veneer or paint the face to hide the joint if I went with "B:
cheers...WayneA man who asks is a fool for five minutes. A man who never asks is a fool for life. - Chinese Proverb
www.wayneranson.com
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28th January 2010, 09:36 AM #8
I have always gone for method A at 15 degrees. I have a large block, longer than a bass neck and wider than a neck, with the 15 degree angle at one end that I can use for planing the scarfe and clamping the 2 pieces, as well as a jig for holding the neck when routing the trussrod, and clamping the fingerboard and fretting.
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28th January 2010, 10:23 AM #9A man who asks is a fool for five minutes. A man who never asks is a fool for life. - Chinese Proverb
www.wayneranson.com
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28th January 2010, 10:28 AM #10
we had a discussion here a month or so ago abot it, dont remember which thread though
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f98/gl...joints-110965/
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28th January 2010, 01:04 PM #11Senior Member
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I`ll try to take some later, at the time I built the jig I did`nt give any thought to taking photos. When I was looking for a better way to construct a neck I built several using methods currently employed by the major manufactures then slammed them on the concrete floor to see which ones broke the easiest. I`m happy to say that with my design the joint stayed intact after several whacks, the others only took one blow to snap the peghead from the neck. Mike
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28th January 2010, 01:19 PM #12Retired
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28th January 2010, 01:30 PM #13
Pics!!!
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28th January 2010, 01:51 PM #14Retired
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28th January 2010, 02:05 PM #15
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