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24th January 2016, 09:05 AM #16Mandolin, mandola and guitar maker
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My problem with torches and fire is the lack of control over the heat... If the conditions are different every-time you use it, how do you become proficient at using the tool?
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24th January 2016 09:05 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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25th January 2016, 11:11 AM #17
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24th February 2016, 03:46 PM #18GOLD MEMBER
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hey Mandoman,
I picked up my 2 pieces of steel pipe the other day. 1 x 4 inch diam and 1 x 2 inch diam, both 6 inches long, with a pipe welded through them. I now have a gas torch attached to my vice. Seems to be working well. After soaking the timber for 20 minutes and working on one section at a time, that section dries out pretty fast. Do you keep on soaking again and just work on one section at a time without having to soak the full length. My wife reckons I will stain the bottom of the bath tub, so I am just soaking the part I am working on.
On the right track,..?.. I am pretty amazed at how well it bends but I think this will be a very long process
Paul
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24th February 2016, 04:19 PM #19Mandolin, mandola and guitar maker
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- Jun 2008
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- Bega NSW
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You don't need to soak the wood, just keep it wet. So, wet it, bend until it starts to dry out, then wet it again. Do a section at a time.
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24th February 2016, 04:45 PM #20
What's the wood?
Spray the wood from a squirt bottle and re spray when the wood dries out. The usual order of bends is waist, upper then lower bout, ie do your tightest radius bends first. For the tight bends support the wood with a metal slat on the outside of the bend if there's a risk of fibres popping out.Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)
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24th February 2016, 04:56 PM #21GOLD MEMBER
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Hey Mandoman,
Thanks for that, very much appreciated. I am currently finding the 2inch pipe a bit better (tad hard to get my gas torch in there though). Another question please. Do you place a wet cloth in between your timber and the pipe,..
Pau
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24th February 2016, 05:27 PM #22
Doing this can reduce risk of charring the wood but at the same time transfer of heat from the iron to the wood is impared if you've got a wet cloth in the way. Just spritz the wood with water when it's dry and take your time with the tight bends. A bending job on a cutaway side for one of my builds can take the best part of a day.
Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)
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24th February 2016, 06:00 PM #23GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks for all this advice, and sorry Kiwi, I missed your post earlier. The timber I am using for the sides is Australian Blackwood. Lovely grain in it. As this is my first acoustic attempt, if it doesnt work out, all is not lost. I had this piece of timber laying around, now sanded down to 2mm. The timber I have prepared for the top of bottom is Australian Red Cedar.
During the last week I bought a dremel in order to cut out my rosette circle, and also bought the plunge router accessory which has a circle cutting jig, but when I set it up, the radius was not small enough for what I want. After doing some googling about, I made a circle cutter from 6mm polycarbonate for my dremel to fit in to, has an adjustable arm to regulate the radius, and pivots on a 3mm pin. Works brilliantly on a trial. Waiting on a rosette to arrive from china via ebay, made from maple (I hope). I am sure I will find lots of other uses for the dremel.
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24th February 2016, 06:46 PM #24
Blackwood can be a challenge to bend......it's high in tannins so expect some discolouration of the wood. The discolouration can be controlled by minimizing the amount of water you use during bending or you can remove the discolouration post bending using Oxalic acid.
Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)
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25th February 2016, 09:27 AM #25GOLD MEMBER
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Hey there Kiwi, and thanks for your advice on oxalic acid, never really knew much about that before. I might have to obtain some. I could have used rosewood for the sides, I have plenty of that, but I had this nice length of blackwood laying around that I ripped down the centre, nice grain. I'll work on this again today with the Blackwood and see how it goes,
Paul
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25th February 2016, 10:01 AM #26Mandolin, mandola and guitar maker
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- Jun 2008
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- Bega NSW
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- 131
I was going to say that Blackwood is relatively easy to bend, but yep, it can discolour.
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25th February 2016, 01:13 PM #27GOLD MEMBER
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thanks for all this advice Mandoman and Kiwi. I am getting pretty close to having my first side done.
Paul
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27th February 2016, 12:29 PM #28Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)
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27th February 2016, 05:58 PM #29GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks Kiwi, I haven't touched this since Friday morning, been tied up, but I pretty much have both sides done now. They are in clamps in my mould and hopefully when they come out, they will be very close.
Paul
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28th February 2016, 03:20 PM #30GOLD MEMBER
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Hi again, Back from a few days away, hopefully soon my sides will be finished. One question at this stage to pre empt applying the kerfling to the top. Is the top flat,..?, So that when I apply the kerfling to the sides for the top to be mounted later on, the kerfling goes straight across the side for the top? I realize I have to make a side tapering jig of some description when I get to do the bottom and before applying the kerfling to the sides for the bottom.
Paul
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