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  1. #31
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    Cal, With you saying a soundboard is usually a soft wood. Why is Koa so loved. I believe it is related to the Acacia family.

    Also, I have a friend who has offered me some Huon Pine. I did not want to take it because I was unsure how good it would be for a soundboard. While others would grab it with glee, I know the story of how it came into his possession, so I would need to be sure it would do the job and not just grab it because it was Huon.

    Pete

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  3. #32
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    Feb 2015
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    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    I think koa is a lot finer grain and lighter than something like a gum, just as Blackwood is a lot finer and lighter than many eucalypts. The Huon would be nice as a top if its quarter sawn. Or King Billy pine, there are lots of nice timbers that would be suitable for a soundboard, plenty of which come from Queensland too. Western red cedar is another.

  4. #33
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    King Billy pine is good if you can get it.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  5. #34
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    Thanks Cliff, Late January, early February I will be in Tasmania on a week long wine tour. I will only have a small window of opportunity to check the local timbers out in Launceston.

    I will have a Friday and Saturday partly free and possibly some of Friday the following week at Hobart. So, some study and research about availability of local timbers in Launceston appears to be the most opportune.

    Naturally, I can not take too much back home but a Uke does not need much. While I am in Tasssie I may as well try to see if anything is available. I can also justify the expense as part of the holiday. While the family and friends are buying wine I can allocate part of my wine budget to some timbers.

    This is all part of the Research and Development side of my Ukulele building. Each year I try to take on one major project or hobby and concentrate my efforts on that. I feel, if I am going to undertake something, it needs to be done properly so that a desirable outcome is more likely.

    Just like undertaking a project in your employment, cutting corners to deliver an outcome can cause a fair bit of grief. So, I will enjoy the journey and practice with some development Ukes as part of the learning curve.

  6. #35
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    Sep 2002
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    If you are in or near Hobart around the 8th to the 11th, call in at the wooden boat festival, there will be timber suppliers there for sure & there will be boat builders who can point you in the direction of good timber.
    Just remember that some timber the suits boats doesn't suit instruments.

    https://www.australianwoodenboatfestival.com.au/

    King Billy makes good sound boards, Tassie Blackwood can be used for backs & sides, they also makes necks out of it but it is heavy.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  7. #36
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    Cliff, As it turns out we will be in Hobart on the 8th and leave on Saturday the 9th for home. But unfortunately our itinerary will be too tight to see the Boat Show. So, it looks like Launceston it is. We have booked a private driver for the week, so have to fit in with the other's plans.

    If it was a Plane Show our Norwegian friends might be interested, But wine and planes far outrank boats and timber gathering. Our Norwegian friend is an Aviation enthusiast flying old WW11 Planes. We will not meet them until Sunday so I have a window of Friday and Saturday in Launceston. I just have to give my wife and daughter the slip for a few hours.

    Pete

  8. #37
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    Mar 2003
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    Newcastle
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    Pete you can't go to tassie and knot bring back a lump of wood...
    But further on the choice of wood for a uke, the thing with koa is that it can be worked very thin and makes a very bright sounding instrument (same with mahogany and blackwood). I've seen some old 100% koa ukes from hawaii and they are really thin (not much more than 1mm) and even though they are buckled and twisted they are still playable and sound good. Lots of woods are fine for instruments but they have to be able to transmit sound well. The basic test is to hold a piece exactly at the node which is halfway or one third of the way and then tap it with a knuckle or a mallet and listen to the sound that it makes. If you get a dull thud then it won't work. If it is something like western red then it chimes quite a musical note. A mate handed me a lump of honduran mahogany one day and said "have a tap on this" and it had a clean musical note that rang for several seconds. So first thing for the river red gum is the tap test and if you can get a note out of it then maybe it can be thinned down for a back and sides set or a cigar box.
    The other thing is that if the wood is good and the instrument is well made then it will almost magically improve with age and playing whereas if the wood is ordinary then the instrument will never improve. Unfortunately this is a bit of a trap for ukes because they are so small and forgiving in the playing almost anything will sound good but then as your playing improves and you start to look for sustain and clarity and accuracy they start to let you down. Then you go buy the next one.

  9. #38
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    Thank you Len and everybody. I am trying to absorb all this information which is way more than I ever expected from this Musical sub forum. It is not the quantity that matters it is all the quality I am receiving.

    Thanks

  10. #39
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    Gold Coast
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    Over the last week I have been busy surveying Ali Express for likely prospects for my Ukulele building journey. I tend to work in reverse to most sane people. I make an investment in a hobby or pastime and then have to work like hell to try to justify the expense that I have committed.

    Just did an add up of my expense so far this week and what I thought was about $60 turns out to be $110. But ordered a heap of parts plus some toggle clamps that I have always wanted but could not justify the price that Bessey asked. These Chinese ones were about a tenth of the price, so we will see.

    Ordered my first item last Sunday night and today the first of my orders arrived. 4 Tuning pegs. 15 more orders to go. They will be added to my compartment box for the start of my Ukulele building career.

    Now, to try to justify my exposure over the next twelve months.

    I will need all the help I can get, I do not mind the cost outlay as I always expect a learning cost for any new endeavour.

    Pete

  11. #40
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    Dec 2007
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    Gold Coast
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    Well, I think I have set the low water mark for Ukulele building. I have ordered from CHINA a ukulele kit for the grand total of $13.00 PLUS $3 for delivery and GST. Hopefully, I can salvage something from it if only as a template.

  12. #41
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    Great, lets see lots of pics. Good luck.

  13. #42
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    Yup, we want a review.

    I have a Baritone that was made in China, I paid $179 (I think) in an Oz music shop about 5 years ago & it is very well made & sounds great.
    It wasn't well set up, I got really good strings for it & filed down the Nut & the Saddle & now it plays great.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  14. #43
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    I have been really busy the last week ( For me, anyhow ) We bought home some young Pekin bantams on Saturday and it has been raining ever since. So had to do some extra work on the chicken coop to make it a bit more comfortable for the little ladies. All done now, so back to the Ukulele planning.

    Cliff, forgetting cost, what is the best strings for a Soprano, Concert and tenor UKULELE.

  15. #44
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    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  16. #45
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    Thanks Cliff, I see Worth are nearly three times the price of the Aquila. Are they really that much better. I know a good player is looking for every bit of performance that they can get.

    All this in formation will go into my Resources file.

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