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Thread: Ukulele build

  1. #31
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    Preamp installation has begun. I ended up finding one that doesnít use a big clunky looking box to house the volume treble and bass pots in it. The bezels were originally painted black and had a few bits of extra casting left on them so I cleaned the edges up and polished off the black paint back to the aluminium. I will put a clear coat on them to stop them oxidising. I wish there was something nicer than the plastic box used to house the input jack and batteries though.




  2. #32
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    Feb 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cal View Post
    Great, where are the pics?
    I didn't want to rain on your parade, I'll post the build under a different thread.

    In the second build I'm putting new skills to work and improving on them but also NOT making the same mistakes I made on the first build.

    I was wondering how you would clamp the bridge . Great work.
    Dave
    All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.
    Edmund Burke 1729 - 1797

  3. #33
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    Will be great to see you ukulele!
    I am going to put the bridge on prior to the back then route the saddle slot once everything is together. That will be a challenge in itself!

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cal View Post
    I am going to put the bridge on prior to the back then route the saddle slot once everything is together.
    We haven't heard anything for a few days Cal. I'm a bit worried about that saddle slot
    Dave
    All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.
    Edmund Burke 1729 - 1797

  5. #35
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    Iím still chasing the bloody horse around the back paddock trying to get the saddle off him [emoji1]
    An update this weekend maybe, stay tuned.

  6. #36
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    Ok, fretboard glued to the neck. Next is the bridge placement, I have to make a bridge first and then get it in the right spot. Advice given was to cut the saddle slot after the bridge is in place so as to get the intonation correct, a task I have been putting off as it troubles me a fair bit. Once the bridge is on, if I stuff up while cutting the saddle slot I will be in all kinds of bother. I know that it is the only way to get the intonation correct though. The only other option is go a floating bridge and a tailpiece, will it look ugly though? Hmm, lots of thinking to do!



  7. #37
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    I reckon a tailpiece would look just right on that with the big F hole arch top look. Not much intonation problems either.
    Only issue is where the piezo lead goes through the top. I built a box baritone earlier this year where the customer wanted an under saddle pickup so I played around and managed it in a floating bridge with just a little movement to adjust intonation. I made a slot for the wire to go down so the bridge still has some fore and aft movement. Just put a wider foot on the bridge to hide the slot. Only need a few mil either way. The guy plays it at gigs and is wrapped with it.
    Regards
    John

  8. #38
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    Thanks for your comments John, really appreciate them. I am so conflicted with it as it is for my daughter and she had a design in mind so I am trying to follow her directions. The last one I made, I had trouble with the bridge lifting due to my lack of knowledge. I am sure that wonít be a problem on this one. The one stand out from when I had it strung up originally then with the tailpiece on it was the increase in volume, it is now so much louder with the tailpiece. On this one, being that it only has the f hole and is going to have nylon strings, I am concerned that it wonít have much of a voice with just the bridge. I think your solution sounds solid, will keep that in the memory bank. I will ponder this a little more also, I seem to be doing a lot of pondering with this build......

  9. #39
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    Pondering is good. Better than rushing in. I Have always gone with moving bridges as thats in my comfort zone but looking at you'r work so far I reckon you will find a way however it goes.
    Anyhow today I looked at a youtube clip that left an idea in my head about tail pieces or rather a temporary tail piece to use as a string anchor. Just to find the right place for a bridge to be placed. Check out the fork.
    Regards
    John
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjWdcNmwTiY

  10. #40
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    Thanks John. I have had a thread running on here New to the group and guitar building - Page 3 - Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum
    And I think I will be taking the plunge and gluing the bridge on then routing the saddle slot once I have the intonation sorted. I have the dremel and a home made router base and now the right size end mill bit. I think that itís the cleanest way to go. I will have to make up (yet another) jig to cut the slot so it will take some time to get it sorted. I will hopefully be able to use the jig again if I make it adjustable. Justin Johnson is a cool character isnít he? Love his work and the ease in which he plays. I have followed quite a few of his lessons, I still need loads of practice though.
    Anyway onwards and upwards, what could possibly go wrong? [emoji848]

  11. #41
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    Default Ukulele build

    Frets have now been leveled and polished, body has had a few coats of shellac and the neck is now glued to the body. Made a bridge for it also, will shape and set the nut first then double check the bridge placement prior to scraping back the finish to glue the bridge. Once itís glued I will then leave it all sit for a week before stringing up to get the saddle placement.

  12. #42
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    Excellent work!!

  13. #43
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    Default Ukulele build

    Bridge is glued in place, preamp installed and back is closed up. Next step, binding the back and shaping the nut then stringing up to sort out where the saddle will go.







  14. #44
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    Having built 1.5 ukes to date I am far from an expert in the matter so please feel free to correct me if I am on the wrong tram here.

    I would have thought it easier to set the saddle in the bridge prior to securing it to the sound board. The correct tone length would be achieved by accurately measuring from the nut to the 12th fret then double that length. That is then the distance between the nut and the saddle, secure the bridge to suit.
    Dave
    All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.
    Edmund Burke 1729 - 1797

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrFez View Post
    Having built 1.5 ukes to date I am far from an expert in the matter so please feel free to correct me if I am on the wrong tram here.

    I would have thought it easier to set the saddle in the bridge prior to securing it to the sound board. The correct tone length would be achieved by accurately measuring from the nut to the 12th fret then double that length. That is then the distance between the nut and the saddle, secure the bridge to suit.
    This correct but you have to also add length for compensation to get the correct intonation on an acoustic steel string itís about an 1/8Ē on a uke slightly less. The one thing about this construction technique is with out the back glued on tap tuning is not an option. Personally I construct the body and tune the top by thinning the dead spots before finish or bridge is applied. Of course it changes once bridge is glued on it changes again but is a lot more responsive. Just an observation I really like you design and you have done a fantastic job looks great.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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