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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    1,141

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    Just spent the day making a Tenor Ukulele mould. Ready to start bending!

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    So I managed to get a fair bit done today, woke at 5:30 and couldn’t get back to sleep. Bent some sides for the tenor ukulele and added kerfing.




    Flattened the top surface and added radius to the back. This is the best way to see the radius, straight edge from front to back, you can see the effect of sanding on the radius dish.


    Jointed a back for it and cut it out along with the soundboard.




    Now on to the bracing and bridge patch, glueing under the go bar deck. Will pull it out in an hour and sit it inside so it isn’t in the shed all day tomorrow. Will then shape the bracing, and start bracing the back.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Warragul Vic
    Posts
    1,093

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    Bloody amazing Cal. Love your tidy determination. Results look so good!

    Whats the wood used for sides & back and front?

    Euge

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
    Posts
    1,141

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    Thanks Eugene! Good old Camphor Laurel would you believe? I have a bit of a time frame to try and get these done by the end of the month as I have another project to start that will take up a heap of time, that’s why I’m cracking on with them. [emoji16]

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    1,141

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    Bracing now shaped and gluing soundboard to the body, I am using a ring of mdf between the ukulele and the bars to protect the bracing. I could use a solid board instead and just weight it down but it would not allow me access inside the ukulele to clean up the glue squeeze out. I apply the glue with a brush to minimise the amount of clean up needed. In five minutes the glue is gone!


  7. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    1,141

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    Things that you think of when you are problem solving! I have a background in photography and have had a few enlargers over the years, I ended up giving them away a while ago.

    Now with the new hobby of building ukuleles I have a problem that requires a solution. When it came time to route the binding channels for the previous ukulele I had an issue with the radius on the back of the ukulele causing the router to tilt a few degrees. I need a way of keeping the router bit parallel with the sides of the body, and at the time I just used the router as it sat and didn’t solve the problem. I looked at some other luthiers fix for this and saw that they use a pair of pantographs to mount the router on. If only I had kept an enlarger that used this method of adjustment!
    Then a couple of weeks ago I happened to see one that was being put out for hard rubbish collection. I purchased a trimmer guide and base off eBay and got to work, a few hours later here it is!


    I made a new baseboard for it as the other one had seen better days, removed the enlarger head and cut the top off the vertical face plate so the top of the router would fit. Shaped and glued a wood block at the top of the router base and mounted the trim bracket/base through the faceplate of the enlarger. I will buy a spiral downcut bit for the router this coming week.
    Happy with the outcome [emoji16]

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    A little more work on these.


  9. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    1,141

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    The under side of the f hole, not seen once the ukulele is finished but I like to know it looks nice [emoji1]

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
    Posts
    1,141

    Default More ukuleles on the bench

    Finally had some shed time today, the high temperatures have abated for the time being. I managed to cut a rosette slot and create a simple rosette for the Blackwood ukulele. Then cut the sound hole and brace the soundboard. The whole lot is at this moment being glued to the body.




  11. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    1,141

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    Back into it again on the weekend, the tenor ukulele got my attention again. Laminated a mahogany and Claret Ash neck together and created a dovetail joint for it and the body. I made up a pair of templates from some clear acrylic and used the trim router to cut the tapered dovetails. I took a couple of attempts on some mdf to get the two parts to the right height and then did the real thing. I now have to cut the binding channels and fit binding. I will then be able to start final sanding and finish of the body while I cut the fretboard, shape the neck, fit the fretboard add the frets, level the frets, fit the nut, shape the headstock, make a bridge and fit it, cut the saddle slot once I fit the tuners and workout the correct intonation. Not much left to do really [emoji15]





    Oh and a nice bit of woody pear from Eugene [emoji16]

    I also managed to cut holes in both the baritone body’s for pickup controls etc.


  12. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Mornington Peninsula, Vic
    Posts
    140

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    Once the body is completed, are you able to remove the face plate(s) of the amp in order to apply the finish to the uke?

    Great work as always.
    Dave
    All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.
    Edmund Burke 1729 - 1797

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    Good question! I have been thinking of how to do it better than the last one I built. I think I should be able to tie wire the volume, treble and bass pots together in such a way to allow me to get around them all with finish and then slip the retaining ring over each wire. I have glued in the little rubber gasket that sits on the inside of the body already, I will do a trial run with the back off and see if I can get the retaining ring tight enough without the need for holding the preamp. The battery holder/input jack is easy to fit once the body is sealed. Even though the Blackwood uke has a sound hole, my hand is too big to go in the hole. The “f” hole uke is the big pain, but I managed the last one ok. The rod piezo is another item that I have to contend with, I cut the wire running to it and joined another piece to both the piezo end and the output pin, run it out through the f hole and fed the piezo through the saddle slot then re soldered them. It meant I had a longer wire than I needed but it worked. I think I may use the battery holder hole in the body to deal with the piezo rod this time. I cut the saddle slot after the bridge was glued in place and the back sealed up, I could then get more precise with intonation for the saddle position. I held my breath doing it, and I now have a jig set for it. Jigs, for ever making jigs! I have spent more time figuring out and building jigs than building ukuleles! I am learning so much through out all of this though [emoji16]

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    1,141

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    And on it goes, fretboard worked out well, with matching headstock. Neck shaped also. Will get in and route the binding channels tomorrow and make and fit binding.



  15. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    The end of the weekend has seen some progress in the shed, starting to get the finish on after having an easy time with the binding. Tuners in and bridge made. Couldn’t help but sit it all together and take a pic or two.



  16. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Queensland
    Age
    50
    Posts
    63

    Default

    What a great looking uke, I really like the originality in the design.

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