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Thread: Xylophone Wood

  1. #1
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    Default Xylophone Wood

    Hi all, never have made any type of instrument, and hoping to make a Xylophonee based on some plans I found. I states that for the sound Bars, either Honduran Rosewood or Purpleheart are recommended. the Rosewood is far too pricey, but never having worked with either, am curious about he Purleheart. Anyone have any experience regarding making a Xylophone, or the wood?
    Thanks.

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  3. #2
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    Purpleheart would be good for a Xylophone.

    It is a hard dense timber that cuts and sands well.

    Padauk is another very good timber.

    If you search for "Tone Woods" you should find more suitable timbers. You might fine a suitable Local timber.

    Some species are better than others and there is variation from board to board. One way to check if a board is suitable if to hold it about a quarter of the way from one end and tap the centre of the board with your knuckle, or another piece of wood.
    If you get a dull sound it is not suitable.
    If it has a bright sound that resonates, then you have a keeper.

    Have fun.
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

  4. #3
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    Scally thank you for the reply and checked Paduak, a bit less costly than purpleheart , might be in over my head with the tuning aspect, but nothing Venture, nothing Gained.

    Quote Originally Posted by Scally View Post
    Purpleheart would be good for a Xylophone.

    It is a hard dense timber that cuts and sands well.

    Padauk is another very good timber.

    If you search for "Tone Woods" you should find more suitable timbers. You might fine a suitable Local timber.

    Some species are better than others and there is variation from board to board. One way to check if a board is suitable if to hold it about a quarter of the way from one end and tap the centre of the board with your knuckle, or another piece of wood.
    If you get a dull sound it is not suitable.
    If it has a bright sound that resonates, then you have a keeper.

    Have fun.

  5. #4
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    Default Xylophone tuning

    Tuning is simpler than you might think.

    Get yourself an electronic tuner or an App on a smart phone and you are nearly done.


    This is how I make mine:

    Cut all the timber to width and thickness.

    Decide how many keys you want and the approximate length of the longest key.


    Cut one to length and check the tuning..........keep cutting it shorter until you hit any of the notes you need.

    Each higher or lower note Key will be a few millimeters shorter or longer than the last.

    If you cut a key too short just keep going until you get to the next note. Then cut a new key for the one you missed. No drama.

    You can fine tune a key by done with a rasp. Lower a key by rasping timber from the centre of the key........usually the underside.
    Raise a key by rasping from the underside of the ends.

    I find the quickest way to check the tuning is to hold the key between your thumb and a finger at the node and tap it with a mallet or any piece of wood.
    The node should be about 2/9th or 22.5% from the end of the key. Close enough is good enough for checking the tuning.

    Sometimes you might find a board that wont tune. Don't waste time on it. Just cut a new board and continue......

    A nice way to start is with 8 keys so you can cover a single octave. The keys could be 25 cm up to 35 cm long.



    Once you have made your first one you will be able to make others any size you like.
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

  6. #5
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    Scally may thanks for your wonderful information. Have been reading and researching so much my head is about to explode.
    I have commited to a design someone on LumberJocks has made, it based on an Orff design, and he had some basic plans he used from ;

    http://www.makingmusicfun.net/htm/f_...king-plans.htm

    I will try and put a picture of it here,if I can figureout how. I may be bit challenging for me but will give it a go. Have ordered a couple of Purpleheart sticks, as they were available in near right sizes, and not as pricey as the Honduran Rosewood. Any other suggestions appreciated, such as how you mounted your bars to the frame.
    Many thanks
    Pee



    Quote Originally Posted by Scally View Post
    Tuning is simpler than you might think.

    Get yourself an electronic tuner or an App on a smart phone and you are nearly done.


    This is how I make mine:

    Cut all the timber to width and thickness.

    Decide how many keys you want and the approximate length of the longest key.


    Cut one to length and check the tuning..........keep cutting it shorter until you hit any of the notes you need.

    Each higher or lower note Key will be a few millimeters shorter or longer than the last.

    If you cut a key too short just keep going until you get to the next note. Then cut a new key for the one you missed. No drama.

    You can fine tune a key by done with a rasp. Lower a key by rasping timber from the centre of the key........usually the underside.
    Raise a key by rasping from the underside of the ends.

    I find the quickest way to check the tuning is to hold the key between your thumb and a finger at the node and tap it with a mallet or any piece of wood.
    The node should be about 2/9th or 22.5% from the end of the key. Close enough is good enough for checking the tuning.

    Sometimes you might find a board that wont tune. Don't waste time on it. Just cut a new board and continue......

    A nice way to start is with 8 keys so you can cover a single octave. The keys could be 25 cm up to 35 cm long.



    Once you have made your first one you will be able to make others any size you like.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #6
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    I think you will be happy with the purple heart. I have made several tongue drums and used purple heart for the tops. They sound great. I'm not a fan of the color of purple heart, but to my pleasant surprise, when I put a finish on them, the purple heart came out a very pretty, deep cranberry red. they have, as of yet not turned back to the ah, ugly purple.

  8. #7
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    You're welcome Pee

    Too much research can make your head hurt. It sounds like you have done enough for now. I would suggest that you make the Orff plan. You will end up with a good Xylophone and your technique will improve as you go.

    The Orff plans looks good.

    I would make one key at a time or you might waste a lot of valuable timber. Once you have made a few and are confident of the approximate length of each key, you might cut all the keys before you start tuning.

    Depending on your skill and tools you can make the plan simpler or more intricate. You could do a nice job with just a saw and a length of rope. A rasp would be handy for fine tuning.

    The arch improves the resonance of the keys and effectively makes the key longer. It isn't necessary and you can make your keys without the arch if you would prefer to avoid the extra work.

    There are plenty of options for attaching the keys. The Orff plan is good but you can use more readily available materials if you can't get the things in the Orff plan. What you are trying to do is isolate the key from direct contact with other keys and the resonator box.
    I'll see if I can find some pics to give you some more ideas.

    You should enjoy this project.
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

  9. #8
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    Scally, again I do appreciate input opinions and advice, all information is helpful . I plan to cut the arches in the underside of the Keys. I have the 4 box sides cut with the 3 degree angle on the ends, what I am struggling with is the mehod of attaching and isolating the Keys. The Orff plan calls for 2 inch brass bolts, however I do not see bolts remaining firmly attached in wood for long so I wonder if screws might be better? Also, they refer to Allen set screws for aligning the bars, but I cannot see where or how that works,as wells what type of tubing. Appeciate your time, and gladly accept any advice ad direction.
    Again thanks to all


    Quote Originally Posted by Scally View Post
    You're welcome Pee

    Too much research can make your head hurt. It sounds like you have done enough for now. I would suggest that you make the Orff plan. You will end up with a good Xylophone and your technique will improve as you go.

    The Orff plans looks good.

    I would make one key at a time or you might waste a lot of valuable timber. Once you have made a few and are confident of the approximate length of each key, you might cut all the keys before you start tuning.

    Depending on your skill and tools you can make the plan simpler or more intricate. You could do a nice job with just a saw and a length of rope. A rasp would be handy for fine tuning.

    The arch improves the resonance of the keys and effectively makes the key longer. It isn't necessary and you can make your keys without the arch if you would prefer to avoid the extra work.

    There are plenty of options for attaching the keys. The Orff plan is good but you can use more readily available materials if you can't get the things in the Orff plan. What you are trying to do is isolate the key from direct contact with other keys and the resonator box.
    I'll see if I can find some pics to give you some more ideas.

    You should enjoy this project.

  10. #9
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    We made one with New Guinea Rosewood that worked very well. Tuning was done by drum sanding a hollow out of the middle of each piece until the right tone was reached. Then it was mounted over a hollow box with a seperate cavity under each key. The cavity can then be tuned by pushing a bloch of polystyrene up and down until you get the right resonance. If I did another one I would be using Swamp Mahogany, not sure of the proper name but noticed that it had a ring to it when struck so lots of potential there.

  11. #10
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    I have re read the Orff plan several times and I'm still not sure what they are saying.

    I think they are placing screws between each key.
    Leave enough of the screw out so the head will be above the top of the keys.
    You need the rubber tubing over the thread of the screw. Any tubing will do. I have a thin clear hose that is available at the local hardware.

    Then they have threaded soft cord from screw to screw so the the keys don't sit directly on the box.

    I hope that helps.

    Toymaker Len, I like the use of the drum sander. I will give it a try.
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

  12. #11
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    Guess I'd better book mark this thread. It is all very interesting and I am a sucker for trying to make musical instruments. So far I've done tongue drums, cigar box guitars and ukuleles, strum stick, Native American flute, and a hand crank organ. I may need a xylophone!

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scally View Post
    I have re read the Orff plan several times and I'm still not sure what they are saying.

    I think they are placing screws between each key.
    Leave enough of the screw out so the head will be above the top of the keys.
    You need the rubber tubing over the thread of the screw. Any tubing will do. I have a thin clear hose that is available at the local hardware.

    Then they have threaded soft cord from screw to screw so the the keys don't sit directly on the box.

    I hope that helps.

    Toymaker Len, I like the use of the drum sander. I will give it a try.
    Scally again I appreciate all the help. I found a link to a feller who builds wooden boats for a living, there are 2 parts but the second part shows the processes he tried attaching the keys, which is direct, and I will probably try his method using screws, and figure what material to use for a cushion. Here is the link;
    http://wn.com/diy_xylophone

    I do not plan on the allen set screws betwen the keys as in my view, the screws will keep the keys/bars from moving
    Have my box in glue and clamps, waiting for the purpleheart to be delivered. Again all advice, opinions welcomed.
    Pete

  14. #13
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    Hi Pete
    I like his method.

    Maybe place a rubber washer under the key.

    Or you could glue a strip of rubber or felt on the board supporting the keys.

    His sounded good, I couldn't hear any rattling of the keys against the screws. If it rattles you could cover the exposed screw thread with electrical tubing or even tape.

    Cheers
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

  15. #14
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    Default Xylophone ideas

    These pics might give you some more ideas about ways to attach the keys.

    A peg though each key is probably the simplest.

    The African Balafon uses rope tied around each key.

    The bigger playground style xylophones have holes through the edges of the keys with either rope of steel rods securing them. This would stop the keys being removed easily.

    The principal is the same in all of them.

    How long before your Purpleheart arrives?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

  16. #15
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    Scally again many thanks, I am still trying to determine which of these methods will be best , leanin towards a screw, with a type of cushion as discussed.
    The Pupleheart arrived yesterday, now to setup for ripping the the 5"x 3/4 into 1 3/16 strips, always appehnsive before cutting a nice piece of wood.

    Quote Originally Posted by Scally View Post
    These pics might give you some more ideas about ways to attach the keys.

    A peg though each key is probably the simplest.

    The African Balafon uses rope tied around each key.

    The bigger playground style xylophones have holes through the edges of the keys with either rope of steel rods securing them. This would stop the keys being removed easily.

    The principal is the same in all of them.

    How long before your Purpleheart arrives?

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