Thread: Problems with off the tool finish

Something I meant to say earlier is that when turning long and thin don't put too much pressure on the tailstock or you will push the wood into a slight bow and then it will tend to vibrate more. Just use enough pressure to stop the wood from slipping in the headstock and not move in the tail.

I was having this trouble turning some legs for a stool for my grandson. I think part of the trouble was the elm which had soft endgrain (and the length of course). I stiffened the endgrain with a bit of bondcrete and then took lighter cuts to reduce side pressure.
Cheers,
Jim

[I was having this trouble turning some legs for a stool for my grandson. I think part of the trouble was the elm which had soft endgrain (and the length of course). I stiffened the endgrain with a bit of bondcrete and then took lighter cuts to reduce side pressure

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With soft stuff like that I often use CA to harden up the ends, quick and easy.

Originally Posted by ozhunter

One question about rpm's, if turning say a bowl that is about 9 inches across, does the same thing apply, faster is better? Or is it just a "feel" thing, experience telling when to slow down or speed up?

Lathe speed is about cutting speed at the tools cutting edge. Bigger dia's - slower speeds, very small spindle dia's require flat out speeds. Just like router bits & drilling in various materials, there are optimal speeds on the lathe to obtain the best finish, minimise tool wear, reduce heat & material damage etc but more importantly to be safe.

One thing that we all should be aware of is that a thick walled bowl may be safe at 2500rpm, but when we reduce the wall thickness to say 2-3mm that same speed may be deadly dangerous! It becomes dangerous because we exceed the strength & mechanical properties of the raw material, its ability to flex & move and to recover as we cut it! Reduce speeds as you get thinner.

http://azwoodturners.org/LatheSpeed.pdf gives an idea of cutting speeds.

Can only add one comment: as one US turner who is a skewmaster said ... the bevel should rub but the wood shouldn't feel it.

Yes rsser its called kissing the bevel .tha wall of a bowl can move a lot when its geting thin so if you dont want flying objects in the shop slow it down .And wear you face shield

I also open the window !! Well, it's only a couple of feet away from any flying object possibility

Hey Oz,
There is some good advice here and some silly.... you need to decide...
I sent you a PM ...
Big thing is don't get too technical, just relax, trust your instincts and ENJOY the turning process and then make it fit what you want to turn.
Stopper

Watch them prove they have teeth!

rsser,
Who is that skew master? I love that quote, and want to use it, and give proper credit.
robo hippy

Hello Oz Hunter,

While I am not for one moment advising contrary to the experts, you may find that it helps to have the tool rest a tad higher that normal. I have found
that using the "skewart" tools to plane on the bevel that a little higher helped a lot, particularly with the bigger skew. I dont know what the experts think
but I have seen others who dont have the skew high enough and that higher level makes it easier to plane at 45 degrees for me. Drillit.

Thank you for all the advise. I haven't had a chance to get back to hte lathe yet, but when I do, I should be well armed.

I'll post the results.

One up for having the tool rest higher. I always have it almost to the center of the job and it is such a habit I forgot to mention it.

It happened to me yesterday. The spirals came, no movement anywhere or so I thought. I replaced the live centre with a solid one just on the off-chance and that was it. Movement in the bearings that I couldn't detect by hand.

Yeah Jim, have read of that change and improvement mentioned by some fine-spindle-work turners.

Reed, 'fraid I can't recall who originated that skew tip. At a guess Alan Lacer but a quick scan of his site didn't find it.