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Thread: Elm
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5th April 2013, 10:40 PM #1Novice
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Elm
A friend has some logs of elm, presumably European.
I am wondering if it is worth cutting a few slabs with a chain mill. From what I can find the timber is not wonderful, though good for chair seats as it does not split.
Does anyone have any experience with this species? I seem to remember reading that it needs to be end-reared, not stacked.
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6th April 2013, 08:29 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Bob
It is a long time since I used any elm, and I have absolutely no experience of it in milling terms. I do however remember it being a beautiful timber, if a bit difficult to work due to the interlocking grain. It used to be the standard timber for coffins where I did my apprenticeship.
If you have more than you need I would be happy to take some off your hands.
Philip.
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6th April 2013, 09:56 PM #3
I've milled and used a bit of elm, lovely timber to work with IMO and finishes nicely.
Must ask you though, what is end reared? Can't say I've heard that one before. I've always stacked and stickered as usual.Cheers
DJ
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7th April 2013, 01:13 AM #4
At a guess I'd say stood upright on it's end
Pete
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7th April 2013, 09:08 PM #5Novice
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Elm
Thanks for the comments on elm. It sounds as if I should try cutting a few slabs before it all goes for firewood.
Pete is right, end rearing is stacking on end. I have read of it being used for one of the English timbers, but it may not have been elm. All references I can find suggest conventional stacking and stickering.
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7th April 2013, 09:11 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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No way would you get the timber mixed up visually, but you may have been thinking of Sycamore.
Philip
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7th April 2013, 09:15 PM #7
If it turns out that the timber is not particularly attractive then it would probably make very good rasp/file/chisel handles, given your comments about not splitting.
Ya can't burn it!
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9th April 2013, 11:09 AM #8GOLD MEMBER
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Elm is a very variable timber. Sometimes very plain and others quite decorative. Nice timber to work and stable when dry. Popular furniture timber in Europe. I have cut and used quite a bit of it.
The term end rearing refers to the fresh sawn timber being stood on end against a wall etc. A spacer block is located close to the top and bottom of the slab and the next piece placed against the spacers and so on. The reason for this is to prevent sticker shadow caused by mold developing between board and sticker while the timber is still wet. The timber is only left raised for about a week to allow initial drying and then re stacked with stickers in the conventional manner.
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9th April 2013, 11:47 AM #9
I find end rearing most species(slabs) works well,and fast too...gravity drags the moisture downward,resulting in the piece seasoning much faster..i use this technique often,and for much longer than a week,with success!..MM
Mapleman
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9th April 2013, 01:00 PM #10GOLD MEMBER
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Yes, end rearing does give much quicker drying and works well on thicker material in humid conditions. Would be interesting to know what the moisture reading was over the length of the slab. You would think it would be higher towards the bottom end.
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9th April 2013, 02:49 PM #11
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9th April 2013, 08:28 PM #12
Elm
That'll explain why I don't know of it as we don't generally as a rule, have high humidity down here
Cheers
DJ
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10th April 2013, 01:33 PM #13GOLD MEMBER
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It's not a commonly used method of drying in Australia.
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12th April 2013, 07:44 AM #14Senior Member
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Elm is well worth trying for furniture, I'm using some at the moment grown here in NZ. I'm not sure which elm species I have tough I assume it would be European as well. I found these few pages on elm from FWW interesting.
Wood - Google Books
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17th April 2013, 10:13 AM #15Member
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Elm makes for TERRIFIC bows. Both bows made from one piece of timber, and laminations.
Have you milled the timber yet? The roundbacks or flitches or whatever they're known as would be valued by bowmakers (like me).
DaveArticles for beginning bowyers, Australian bowyers, and beginning Australian bowyers:
http://www.tharwavalleyforge.com/ind...shop/tutorials