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Thread: Myturn sl7
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25th February 2013, 07:01 PM #1future machinist
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Myturn sl7
Hi guys I picked up the myturn lathe that was on eBay it's a Taiwanese copy of a Myford ML7.I am planning to convert it to CNC for my major High school project.
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Andre
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25th February 2013 07:01 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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25th February 2013, 07:51 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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Good project Welder, keep us posted on this. It interests me but I reckon that all that computery
stuff is a bit beyond me, where do you start ?
john
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25th February 2013, 08:41 PM #3Senior Member
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Its for design and technology?
What sort of controllers are you looking at? I was contemplating doing a CNC conversion with an arduino and GRBL, just getting my head around the task at this point though.
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25th February 2013, 08:50 PM #4future machinist
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The project is for Design and Technology course. I plan to use Mach3 ArtSoft USA - Home of Mach3 and LazyCam
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Andre
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17th March 2013, 09:30 PM #5
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4th April 2013, 06:01 PM #6future machinist
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Well I have started the bracket which will bolt to the rear of the lathe and hold the stepper motor. I also need to fit thrust bearing to the lead-screw although I am not to sure how to do this
laying out holes in the mill
Hole sawing excess stock
Boring to size
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Andre
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4th April 2013, 06:12 PM #7future machinist
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Using Boring head as a flycutter to make a slot
Milling slots steeper motor mount
=
o
The next stage was making the section which will actually attach to the lathe. I had to mill out a groove the allow the bracket to sit on the raised section of lathe bed
Milling slot
Almost completed bracketBETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE
Andre
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4th April 2013, 07:53 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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Looking good. Will be a interesting project.
Ben
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10th May 2013, 09:38 AM #9future machinist
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Okay I have installed the thrust bearings onto the lead screw and boy what a difference it makes I can now move the carriage by turning the lead screw with one finger
I then machined a new bush for the end of the shaft with two flats and a thread to replace the previous nut and collar arrangement It will also give me a shaft to mount the lead-screw drive pulley on.
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Andre
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15th May 2013, 12:45 PM #10future machinist
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Okay here are a few more photos, To ensure that the thrust bearings had a good face to ride on I faced the bushing which holds the leadsrew I did this in the 3 jaw chuck to ensure it was parallel. The second set of photos are the leadscrew I used the fixed steady to machine it.
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Andre
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15th May 2013, 09:32 PM #11
Good to see some pics Andre.....although i'm not sure what i'm looking at in the first one?
I'm toying with the idea of making an EFS (electronic feed shaft....as apposed to ELS...) and am waiting to see how you go about it before i really start thinking about it.
Cheers,
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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16th May 2013, 01:00 PM #12future machinist
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Thanks for the. Comment Ew it's good to know someone's watching. The first picture is the bracket which used to holds the cross slide screw the quality is appalling holds drilled off centred, holes tapped at a 5. Degree angle the list goes on.
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Andre
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17th May 2013, 10:40 AM #13
Watching every new post sitting back enjoying the WiP
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17th May 2013, 11:14 AM #14SENIOR MEMBER
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Watching and enjoying..
A couple of question for you.
Have you sized up your motors and pulleys yet?
Are you going to be driving the spindle as well? ie threading?
-Josh
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17th May 2013, 11:23 AM #15Senior Member
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Yes me too am watching this modification. the M E Workshop magazine recently was doing a retro fit to cnc on a Myford .
never owned a Myford but seems to be the back bone of the Model Engineer.Have a brace of Drummonds here and fore runner of ML7 that is derived from a Drummond M series. These old Drummonds are great old machines and do accurate work equivalent to the multitude of Asian machines.A 1902 model here cuts as accurately as the day it was made.Keep up the good work John.